Milan fashion sees return to the 1960s

The Italian collections for autumn/winter 2003, shown in Milan this week, have only just begun. Yet one thing is certain: the 1960s are back.

A trend championed by Marc Jacobs at the New York shows and followed up by Roland Mouret at London Fashion Week has been confirmed here in Milan as next season's big fashion statement.

The miniskirt, pioneered by Mary Quant in the 1960s, has dominated the runways at Anna Molinari, Emporio Armani and Sportmax, spawning a rash of opaque tights and thigh-high boots. Emporio Armani's flirty undulating skirts were teamed with trapeze-shaped coats and fitted jackets lined with silver leather, all in a palate of black and white, while Anna Molinari's miniskirts evoked images of a young Julie Christie.

Sportmax, the sportier diffusion line from Italian fashion giantMaxMara, was a collection for mean, lean action babes. Monochrome tailoring took its cue from Evel Knievel with sporty panel inserts and zips, and voluminous bomber jackets with fur-trimmed hoods. But it was Sportmax's hard-core sex attitude that had thigh-high patent leather boots, jersey dresses worn under buckled leather harnesses, and black leather trench-coats storming down the runway. What could have ended up verging on tacky was tempered with delicate gathered chiffon skirts, and sleeveless frock-coats and cropped trousers decorated with silver embroidery.

Prada's brand of sex, although less obvious than in recent seasons, was still bubbling away underneath the roughly draped and ruched cocktail dresses, oversized car-coats, and sturdy tweeds that had an air of make-do-and-mend chic. And while Prada's collection had a distinctive 1950s post-war austerity to it, there were nods to the dominating 1960s trend within the coats with wide funnel necks and brightly coloured Palm Beach printed silks that were sliced into trilbies, pyjama pants and slim shirts.

Was Prada's dishevelled, hard-up-aristocrat look predicting rough times ahead for the luxury goods market? The current economic climate poses a threat to the fashion industry; one that won't help the likes of Gucci, which is suffering from falling figures. Feedback from the Gucci show will be crucial in determining if Italian fashion can really weather the storm.