The front row at Fashion Week is no longer the best way for designers to make an impact

London has already eschewed fur and is increasing the diversity of models – but how can designers ensure their clothes don’t cost the Earth to create, asks Harriet Hall

The industry is finally paying to attention to the environmental costs (Getty)

Anyone who’s ever watched Meryl Streep’s turn as glacial cold magazine editor Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada might have an inkling of how absurd the fashion industry can be. Every year as The Independent lifestyle team gears up to cover the ready-to-wear fashion shows, this farcicality comes sharply into focus once more.

Suddenly, where you sit and who you’re sitting with matters (although, of course, it doesn’t). Whether you’re an editor, reporter, buyer, Instagrammer or stylist will affect which shows you get into (or whether you’re mates with the press team). How you dress is of the greatest importance (unless, of course, you’re actually reporting, in which case how comfortable your shoes are and how much battery your laptop has trumps this).

This is the Academy Awards of the fashion industry, when all eyes are on this world, judging its creations of the past six months. How much buyers and press like what is shown on the catwalks this season will determine which trends fly and which flop. The stakes are high.

In recent seasons, fashion week has faced rather a new dilemma: for designers, a celebrity Frow (or front row) is less likely to get you positive coverage now than a political statement – namely a sustainable one.

After centuries of being the industry that didn’t care, fashion is paying attention. London eschewed fur over a year ago, designers are showing their clothes on an increasingly diverse cadre of models and how to reckon the climate crisis with an industry of capitalist consumerism is the discussion on everyone’s lips.

Extinction Rebellion would like London Fashion Week cancelled in 2020. Is that likely to happen? Doubtful: fashion is London’s heartbeat – and it brings in the money to keep the blood pumping – but last season, designers clearly took note, listened and made changes. To have gotten this fabulous industry to pay attention is quite something.

We’ll be covering how sustainable fashion week has become, whether diversity and politics are determining the cut of everyone’s jib or if fashion is continuing to walk to the beat of its own drum over the coming days. Hope to see you there.

Yours,

Harriet Hall

Lifestyle editor