LETTERS: Dangers in the mountains

From Mr Brian Herd

Sir: Victoria Pybus ("The difference between hill-walking and mountaineering: ice", 16 December) extols the thrills and challenges of climbing the Scottish mountains in winter. There are dangers as well as delights in winter climbing. Conditions in the Scottish mountains in winter tend to be Arctic rather than Alpine. Small avalanches are common and can cause disastrous falls.

Many popular climbing areas are not covered by avalanche warning systems. One-third of the deaths due to avalanches last winter occurred in areas not covered by avalanche warning services.

Two years ago, my daughter was on an introductory snow and ice course, under instruction by a qualified member of the British Association of Mountain Guides. The leader took the party up a snow gully on Liatach, Torridon. A small wind-slab avalanche dislodged the climbers near the top of the climb and they fell back down the gully. My daughter Kathy died from the head injuries she received.

A fatal accident inquiry was held in Dingwall last March under Sheriff Principal Douglas Risk. Many matters of public interest were raised: standards of safety for parties under instruction, availability of avalanche warnings, co-ordination of mountain rescue efforts, etc. The Sheriff Principal's findings are awaited. It is not clear why the publication of his report has been delayed.

Meanwhile, others may be at greater risk than my daughter was, particularly in the current weather conditions. The inexperienced need good instruction, but there is no check on the standards of mountaineering schools. There is nothing to stop anyone setting up a mountaineering school. No qualifications are required, there is no system of registration and there is no external assessment of standards of instruction and safety.

I have had too much pleasure from the mountains to discourage climbers, but too much pain not to dread this winter's inevitable fresh toll of tragedy. I hope lessons may be learnt from my daughter's accident to help reduce the risks for other climbers.

Yours sincerely,

Brian Herd

Lorton, Cumbria

27 December