Life and Style

If you were inventing a restaurant to promote London's scene it would, surely, be this: Korean street food in Hoxton. It's got in-flight magazine article all over it: "Visitors to London will love this edgy eatery." Shudder.

Colony Bar and Grill, 7-9 Paddington Street, London

It's a truism in marketing that you sell the sizzle, not the steak. The sizzle-sellers have been hard at work building a story for Colony, the latest venture from star chef Atul Kochhar, of Benares fame. According to the pre-publicity, Colony's tapas-style menu would be inspired by Indian street food, specifically "the marinades, aromatic flavours and grilling methods" of the street traders of colonial Asia. Sounds great, doesn't it? But hang on – street food and the Raj? Isn't that two different stories we've got going on there? Surely only the most educated palette would be able to differentiate between colonial and post-Independence street food?

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