Food & drink: Malaysia in minutes

Keen to shed its unadventurous image, Sainsbury's sent teams around the world in search of inspiration. The scheme paid off - one exotic find has now been named best supermarket dish of the year. But just what is laksa, asks Michael Bateman

SAINSBURY'S has just picked up the prize for best supermarket product of the year. But it's not for its thick-cut marmalade, nor its own-brand Yorkshire puddings, it's for a dish which few of its customers had ever heard of it before it hit the shelves: laksa.

Well done, Sainsbury's, but what is laksa? Surely it can't be a new range of laxatives?A baked pudding, maybe? No, it's a delicious noodle soup, eaten all over Malaysia but unknown here.

It is their Prawn Laksa which a panel of leading chefs and food writers has awarded the country's top prize, a Golden Q, at the annual quality awards. These prizes, presented by SuperMarketing magazine at the Dorchester Hotel last Wednesday, go to the best and most innovative in a dozen categories including best snack, best cheese, best bakery product, best fresh meat, best children's meal, best vegetarian meal, best dessert, best alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and so on. And best ready meal, which is where the laksa comes in.

In Malaysia every cook has his own recipe for this universal convenience dish. Usually it's made with quick-cook rice noodles, and as few or as many tasty morsels (seafood, chicken, sliced vegetables) as you want to throw in, drowned in a richly flavoured stock, a cross between soup and sauce.

The taste is sublime. The flavours sing - pungent combinations of garlic, lime, lemongrass, coriander and galangal (a root that resembles ginger but has a more medicinal flavour). The taste sensations are compounded with further additions: tamarind paste to make it sour; chilli to make it fiery and piquant; coconut milk to soothe the fire.

And Sainsbury's got it right, how about that? You wonder how, of all the stores, Sainsbury's hit this particular bullseye. Isn't it the most quintessentially British of all the chains? It's not as though there are Malaysian restaurants on every street corner - the Good Food Guide lists only three in London.

Aha, this is no accident, says Sainsbury's with swelling pride. On the contrary, it vindicates a policy first put in place two and half years ago. Anxious to amend their image as a cosy, friendly, homely establishment into a more adventurous one, a commando unit - the Innovations Team - was sent out to scour the world for exciting new dishes that could be reproduced for the store.

Malaysian laksa is only one of many products which have been filtering on to shelves in the last year or so as a consequence of these culinary expeditions.

Many of the discoveries have joined Sainsbury's Special Selection range of 500 premium-priced items such as estate-bottled olive oils, balsamic vinegars, hand-made pasta, Australian rock lobster, Paul Prudhomme's Cajun and Creole seasonings. Some of the best are the treats from Spain: Iberico ham, hot smoked paprika pepper, Calasparra paella rice, Ibsa roasted peppers in oil, Bonito tuna in olive oil and membrillo, otherwise known as quince cheese.

But it is sourcing cooked dishes such as laksa from around the world which is Sainsbury's real breakthrough. In the past, supermarkets looked to specialist ready-meal companies to come to them with new products - giants like Northern Foods, Hazlewood, and Oscar Mayer in Somerset, which has a team of 30 chefs constantly putting ideas to the supermarkets.

The Innovations Team decided to take the initiative. An intense band - often as many as 20 buyers and suppliers, along with their own chef, Stephen Parkins - stormed through Europe, the US, the Far East and Australasia.

It was Parkins, 35, who decided on the laksa during a week in Malaysia. Parkins joined Sainsbury's only a year ago with an impressive CV. He trained in a broad range of restaurants, from John Tovey's Miller Howe in the Lake District to the Gate in Notting Hill (cooking vegetarian food), to the Ivy. Most recently he was sous-chef to Peter Gordon at the Sugar Club.

That man Gordon again! Is there any corner of our homes and kitchens that this charismatic New Zealander doesn't reach? Only this month he left the small screen, where he'd been a winsome guest star on Nigel Slater's Real Food series. And could it be that Parkins actually encountered laksa at the Sugar Club? After all, it was Gordon who introduced this dish to the UK.

But to his credit, it was Parkins who tamed it for supermarket production. And it is no small thing to take a street food and reproduce it in factory conditions as he has done, and as the SuperMarketing judges pointed out.

Parkins' whistle-stop tour of Malaysia, at a time when the pall of burning forests hung over the whole of South-east Asia, was hardly the most pleasant experience of his life. "It was extremely hot and thick with smog," he remembers. But the food was inspirational, the laksa above all.

The advantage of travelling with the buyers, says Parkins, is that you can talk them into decisions they wouldn't take back home, sitting in an office. "I loved the dish. So did they and I told them: I want you to make this as big a success as chicken tikka masala. It's quick, it's easy, it's nutritious. It works very well." So it had all the makings of a Great British Classic, then?

In his kitchens in Sainsbury's head office in London, Parkins has arranged a demonstration. Making laksa from scratch really is a doddle, he says. Noodles are so quick to cook. The sauce is made by diluting a laksa paste and all you have to do is to add a few tasty extras of your own; prawns or chicken or bean curd for the vegetarians.

Sainsbury's sells a laksa paste, but you can make your own if you can get your hands on the ingredients, which has become easier since Asian suppliers have become more commonplace (indeed, Sainsbury's stocks most of them).

Making the paste? "Nothing to it. Just blast the ingredients in a food processor." Parkins illustrates how very quick it is to make the dish - dry noodles cook in just four minutes. There's a trick to the noodles, he says: "Cover the noodles with boiling water. Bring them back to the boil. Throw in a cup of cold water, and bring to the boil again. Repeat twice more. Strain the noodles. Refresh with cold water."

Why the ritual? "It means you avoid overcooking and it prevents the starchy water from frothing up and boiling over. It also happens to be a handy way of timing the cooking." You can use dried or fresh noodles, he says (fresh ones do not need boiling, just stir-frying). And it is all true: laksa is very easy and very tasty, and soon to be our next big, exotic family favourite: look out for it in Sainsbury's, or better still, have a go at the recipes opposite and find out for yourself.

! Sainsbury's Prawn Laksa ready meal is available in most stores at pounds 2.99 for 400g

The recipes below include two for laksa, representing its different styles: the first is a rich, deluxe version from Georgetown, the second a hot and sour Assam laksa. As well as these, there are recipes for making Malaysian spring rolls and fish cakes, all taken from a new book by a young Australian, James Mayson, called Street Food from Around the World (Absolute Press, pounds 8.95). Mayson's book includes informative sections on foods from the Far East, as well as focussing on the spicy, warming cuisines of Malaysia and Singapore.

RICH SEAFOOD LAKSA

Serves 6

250g/8oz uncooked tiger prawns

1 fresh medium crab

250g/8oz mussels or clams

1 large squid hood

2 medium fillets of white-fleshed fish

500g/llb rice vermicelli

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 litre/2 pints water

5cm/20in galangal, thickly sliced (or fresh ginger, if not available)

4 kaffir lime leaves

1 stalk of lemongrass, cut diagonally into 1cm/13in lengths

1 litre/2 pints coconut milk

2 tablespoons of Vietnamese mint or coriander leaves

For the paste:

2 cloves garlic

4 spring onions, white parts only, sliced

2 teaspoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon grilled shrimp paste (see glossary overleaf)

4 red chillies, chopped

roots from a bunch of coriander (about 12)

1 teaspoon each of ground turmeric, ground cumin, salt and brown sugar

Shell and de-vein the prawns, reserving the heads. Clean the crab by removing the front claws, splitting the body into quarters and removing the intestines. Scrub the mussels, remove their beards, soak in a bowl of water for 10 minutes, then steam in a saucepan with 125ml (4fl oz) boiling water, shaking vigorously every few minutes. Discard any that don't open. Wash the squid hood, score the flesh in a criss-cross pattern and slice into 4x2cm (34in) strips. Cut the fish into 3cm (114in) cubes.

Soak the vermicelli in cold water for 20 minutes and drain. Blend the paste in-gredients in a food processor till smooth.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or frying pan and fry the prawn heads until bright pink. Discard the heads, add the paste and fry for two to three minutes. Add the water, galangal, limes leaves and lemongrass and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the coconut milk and simmer for five minutes. Gently place the crab in the soup and cook for five minutes. Add the fish cubes and cook for five minutes, then add the prawns, squid and mussels. Cook until the prawns turn pink, and remove from the heat.

Divide the rice between six serving bowls and ladle the soup on top. Using tongs, divide the seafood among the bowls, sprinkle with the Vietnamese mint or coriander and serve.

LAKSA ASSAM

SPICY NOODLE SOUP

Serves 6

2 medium fillets of white-fleshed fish

500g/llb wide, flat rice noodles

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon each shrimp paste (if available), ground turmeric and ground cumin

2 gloves garlic, chopped

1 litre/2 pints water

60ml/2fl oz fish sauce

125ml/4fl oz tamarind water

5cm/2in piece galangal, thickly sliced, or fresh ginger

4 kaffir lime leaves

1 stalk of lemongrass cut diagonally into 1cm/13in lengths

2 red chillies, chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 spring onions, sliced diagonally into 2cm/34in lengths

2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

Cut the fish into 2cm (34in) cubes. Soak the noodles in boiling water for five minutes, then drain.

Heat the sesame oil in a large wok over a high heat and fry the shrimp paste until fragrant (about one minute), stirring constantly. Add the turmeric, garlic and cumin and fry for one minute.

Pour in water and bring to the boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Add fish sauce, tamarind water, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and chillies and simmer for 15 minutes. Add fish cubes and simmer until cooked, about eight to 10 minutes. Check the seasoning and remove from the heat.

Divide the noodles among serving bowls and ladle the soup over the top, garnish with spring onions and coriander leaves and serve.

MALAYSIAN FISH CAKES

Serves 6

2.5cm/1in galangal, sliced (or fresh ginger, if not available)

1 onion, chopped

2 red chillies, chopped

1 stalk of lemongrass, sliced

2 kaffir lime leaves

60ml/2fl oz coconut milk

500g/1lb perch or ling fillets

2 tablespoons cornflour

2 eggs

2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

1 teaspoon each ground cumin and ground turmeric

salt and freshly ground black pepper

banana leaves or aluminium foil

Blend the galangal, onion, lemongrass, chillies and lime leaves in a food processor to a thick paste, adding just enough coconut milk to thin out any lumps. Add the remaining ingredients except the banana leaves, and pulse until everything is well incorporated, but still slightly chunky.

Cut the banana leaves into 12 25cm (10in) squares and blanch for two minutes. Place a generous tablespoon of the mixture in the centre of each square and fold into a parcel, secure with a toothpick, brush with oil and grill on the barbecue for 10 to 15 minutes on each side or until the fishcakes are firm and slightly browned. Serve when the parcels are cool enough to handle.

If you don't have a barbecue, you can cook the fish cakes (unwrapped) in a frying pan with a little oil until lightly golden and slightly crisp on the outside.

BEEF SATAY

Serves 4

500g/llb minced beef

1 onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, crushed

5cm/2in piece ginger, grated

1 teaspoon shrimp paste, grilled

1 spring onion, finely sliced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon chilli power

50g/112 oz roasted peanuts, chopped

roots from a bunch of coriander (about 6)

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon plain flour

salt and freshly ground black pepper

16 wooden skewers, soaked in water for a few hours

For the marinade:

60ml/2fl oz soy sauce

4 tablespoons brown sugar

250ml/8fl oz tamarind water

2 tablespoons sesame oil

Combine all the ingredients for the meat patties in a large bowl and mix them together with your hands until everything is well incorporated.

Mould the mixture around each skewer, making sausage shapes about 2cm (34in) thick. Brush with a little oil. Cook on the barbecue, in a char- grill pan or under a grill, turning a little at a time until all the sides are cooked (four to five minutes).

For the marinade: put the the soy sauce and sugar in a pan and bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, add the tamarind water and cook until thickened. Remove from the heat, stir in the sesame oil and set aside.

Brush the meat skewers with the marinade, return to the grill for 20 seconds each side and serve immediately.

MUSSELS IN BLACK SAUCE

Serves 6

1.5kg/3lb fresh black mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded

5 tablespoons vegetable oil

250ml/8fl oz water

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2.5cm/1in piece ginger, finely sliced

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

112 tablespoons black bean paste

1 red pepper, cut into 5cm/2in long strips

1 tablespoon each sherry and soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon cornflour mixed with 250ml/8fl oz water

6 spring onions, finely sliced

Soak the mussels in a bowl of water for 30 minutes and drain well. Heat a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a wok or wide, heavy-based saucepan with a lid. When hot, divide the mussels into four batches, and steam each batch in the bottom of the pan for one minute, covered with the lid. Shake the pan vigorously, pour in a quarter of a cup of water, cover immediately and leave on the stove for a further minute. Place the mussels in a bowl, discarding any that are not open. Reserve the juices.

Heat the sesame oil and the remaining vegetable oil in the wok, add the ginger, garlic, black bean paste and red pepper and stir-fry for two minutes. Stir in the sherry, sugar, soy sauce and cornflour. Return the mussels and their juices to the wok and let the sauce thicken slightly. Toss in the spring onions and spoon into small serving bowls.

MALAYSIAN SPRING ROLLS

Serves 6

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

3 gloves garlic, chopped

2.5cm/1in piece ginger, chopped

250g/8oz uncooked prawns, chopped

100g/312oz each minced pork, bean sprouts and carrots, cut into thin strips

2 tablespoons soy sauce

salt and freshly ground black pepper

100g/312oz cellophane noodles, soaked in water for 10 minutes and cut into 2cm/34in lengths

2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

4 spring onions, chopped

2 eggs, beaten separately

1 packet large spring roll wrappers (about 20)

vegetable oil for deep frying

Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan and fry the garlic and ginger for two minutes. Add the prawns, pork, carrots and soy sauce and cook for a further three minutes. Season to taste, remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. When cool, mix in the sprouts, noodles, coriander, spring onions and one egg.

Lay out the wrappers on a flat surface and place two tablespoons of the mixture in the bottom left-hand corner of each. Pull the corner over the filling and roll up the wrapper, folding the two side flaps towards the middle. Brush the top corner with a little beaten egg to seal. Deep-fry the rolls in very hot oil until golden, and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately.

TAPIOCA COCONUT PUDDING

Serves 6

200g/7oz tapioca

400ml/13fl oz coconut cream

pinch of salt

1 stick cinnamon

4 cardamom pods, split

115g/4oz palm or muscovado sugar

juice and grated rind of 2 limes

100g/312oz shredded coconut, lightly toasted

100g/312oz roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Wash and drain the tapioca and place in a heavy-based saucepan with the coconut cream and salt, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Add the cinnamon, cardamom and sugar and cook, stirring until the tapioca has swollen and is opaque (if necessary, add water to the pot to stop the tapioca sticking). Stir in the lime juice and rind. Remove from the heat.

Pour into a 20x20cm (8x8in) baking tray, remove the cinnamon stick and cardamom pods and spread evenly to a thickness of 4 to 5cm (112 to 2in).

Sprinkle with coconut and peanuts, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until set. Cut into squares and serve.

THE FLAVOURS OF MALAYSIA

LEMONGRASS

Citrus-flavoured stems. Strip the tough outside leaves away and slice into soups to give flavour and perfume.

CORIANDER

The green-leafed, parsley-like herb. In Malaysia the roots are especially prized, their flavour more intense than the leaf's. They are washed and chopped or pounded.

KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

Shiny green leaves with a keen, tart flavour. Can be frozen. You will only need to use a couple at a time.

COCONUT

The milk is used in soups to temper the fieriness of the spices. It's laborious to make your own (steeping freshly grated coconut in hot water and straining it) but it can be bought in cans. There are other forms - powder, desiccated coconut and waxy bars. Dried coconut is also used as a garnish. It is first "toasted", that is to say dry-fried in a pan until it starts to brown.

SHRIMP PASTE

A very strong-smelling dried paste sold as blachan in Asian shops. Small shavings are scraped off, heated on foil under a grill to melt, or gently in oil till they dissolve. It's not actually used in the Sainsbury's laksa paste, as it was considered a bit too strong for customers' delicate sensibilities.

TAMARIND

A souring agent. An acidic pulp, sometimes sold in dried form with pips. Needs to be soaked to make tamarind water. Can be bought as a paste.

GALANGAL

Similar in appearance to fresh ginger, bought dried or fresh. Gentle, slightly medicinal taste. Balances the flavour of stronger spices. CHILLIES

Fresh and dried chillies are essential to Malaysian cooking. All sorts are used, but the hottest are the small "bird" chillies, both red and green.