Why open-water adventurers should try ‘cross-country swimming’ in south Devon

Combining hiking, camping and numerous cold-water paddles, this new breed of activity holiday hits all the right notes, says Nina Zietman

Swim for your supper on a cross-country adventure (Lisa Bretherick)

The sharp wind stung my cheeks as I pulled my hands through the icy water. There was only 500 metres to go, but my legs felt like granite. In the distance, I spied a Union Jack flapping violently – it marked the finish line, The Swan Inn at Noss Mayo. Most Sundays, I’m still tucked in bed with a cup of tea, pondering a roast. Today, instead of hiking to the pub for lunch, I was swimming to it.

I’ve long romanticised the idea of open-water swimming. No chlorine, no kids and no crowds. It turns out I’m not the only one. Open-water swimming has surged in popularity in recent years. An estimated 7.5 million people regularly swim outdoors, according to Swim England. So, when I came across the concept of cross-country swimming – a combination of hiking and open-water swimming – I was sold. Armed with my wetsuit and goggles, I boarded the train to Plymouth for a weekend of water, walking and camping in south Devon.

On arrival, I quickly realised our weekend base, a true off-grid idyll on the edge of Dartmoor, was far from a regular sterile campsite. Meandering woodland paths led to an open-air kitchen, fully stocked with everything from bacon and eggs to Pukka tea. Beyond, there was a canopied fire pit, compost loo, wood-fired hot tub and, blessedly, a hot shower surrounded by a carpet of bluebells.