The big UK retailers have raised their game when it comes to the type of beer they offer

Marks and Spencer has recently started carrying a whole new range of products, and the company is following in the footsteps of two other chains

Three to try: Oakham Citra; Suffolk Single Variety British Hop Jester IPA; Boulevard Tank 7

Marks and Spencer has changed. The company's food halls, long a good indicator as to what the British middle class want to consume, are full of edgy new products. On a recent visit I picked up a jar of Brooklyn Brine Co's Hop-Pickles, which are made with Dogfish Head's 60-minute IPA. A bit sexier than a prawn-mayo sarnie, I think you'll agree.

The kind of beer M&S sells has changed, too. The company has recently started carrying a whole new range of products, from the M&S-branded Jester IPA, made with a punchy new English hop and brewed by the admirable Adnams, to offerings from some of the UK's best new small breweries: Buxton, Camden, Fourpure and others.

In this respect, M&S are following in the footsteps of two other chains. Booths, the largely Lancashire-based retailers, has been committed to quality beer for years, while Waitrose has a very decent selection, with Thornbridge, Meantime and Oakham.

Even Tesco is taking an interest. Traditionally more interested in selling huge volumes of branded lager, Tesco has collaborated with the Beer Alliance to introduce their customers to five key beer styles. Given the size of Tesco's market, this could be very significant.

A good thing – it's about time the big retailers raised their game. While I'd always recommend the best smaller retailers, like Beer Ritz in Leeds or the Bottle Shop in Canterbury, not everyone has these on their doorstep. Thankfully, supermarkets are now stepping into the breach.

Three to try

Oakham Citra

This crisp, dry classic from Oakham sets the standard for Britain's pale beers. 4.6% ABV, £1.99 for 500ml, waitrose.com

Suffolk Single Variety British Hop Jester IPA

Made with a new hop, this IPA is a sort of gooseberry and grapefruit punch. 5.2% ABV, £2.40 for 500ml, marksandspencer.com

Boulevard Tank 7

This superb farmhouse ale is peppery, dry and hugely drinkable given its not inconsiderable strength. 8.5%, £2.69 for 355ml, booths.co.uk