Bites: Other brothers

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Where the City meets the scene

Chimneys Restaurant, Great North Road, Bawtree, near Doncaster, South Yorks (01302 714426). Wed-Sat dinner. Patrick Thompson brought his younger brother Robert with him as pâtissier when he started in this new restaurant a year ago. As a former Roux Scholar – winner of a prestigious young chef's competition – his cooking is complicated but original modern French. From the £32-for-three-courses menu comes chicken and baby leek terrine with figs, spiced bacon and red-wine sauce; salmon with salmon-and-crayfish ravioli, pak choi, and green tea and cinnamon cappuccino; apple and Calvados parfait, caramelised apple compote with apple sorbet and almond tuiles.

Golden Lion, 9/10 Village Square, Osmotherley, Northallerton, North Yorks (01609 883526). Daily lunch and dinner. Peter McCoy, one of the brothers whose Cleveland Tontine Inn is a gastronomic landmark of the North, runs this village pub that has a reputation for food so terrific that it's what most people come for. The menu ranges from a home-made beef burger with Mexican salsa, chips and peas for £5.95, to a whole grilled sea bass with new potatoes for £13.95.

McCoy's at Yarm, Strickland & Holt, High Street, Yarm, Cleveland (01642 791234). Mon-Sat breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner. Brothers Tom and Eugene, in partnership with Marcus Bennett, the chef from the McCoy mother-ship at the Cleveland Tontine Inn, have branched out only this weekend by opening above the shop in the nearby market town. Spanish and Middle Eastern tapas will be served at a long bar. There'll be rustic dishes such as black pudding, beetroot, and potato salad; braised lamb shank with polenta and tomato jus, at around £20 for three courses, with coffee and pastries and afternoon teas either side of lunch. The place is filled with mirrors, palms and lamps, giving it a cluttered charm that marks it out as a real McCoy.

The Priory House, 1 High Street, Stoke-sub-Hamdon, Somerset (01935 822826). Tue-Sat lunch and dinner. Days before Martin Hadden was awarded a Michelin star at Ockenden Manor in Sussex, he'd decided to open his own restaurant. One of the first things he did when he moved to Somerset earlier this year was employ his brother Chris straight from catering college. Together they concentrate on simple, assured classics: foie gras terrine with French beans, truffle oil and brioche, or warm artichoke heart with crab hollandaise. Lunch is £14 for two courses, £18 for three; dinner £24 for two courses, £28 for three; tasting menu £39.50 for seven courses.