Harvest for the world

Buying organic is no longer the preserve of the sandal-wearing hippy, says Katy Guest as she turns over a new, green leaf at the market, in the shops, by mail order and on the Web

For the uninitiated, buying organic can seem daunting. Not so long ago the very word was inextricably associated with nut roasts and the kind of shop where every other ingredient was tofu, and where asking for a Coca-Cola would elicit the same reaction as going into the supermarket and demanding a wrap of cocaine.

Mercifully, those days are gone. But the range of choice that has replaced that austere, vegan mentality is equally baffling. Where do you begin?

"Buy locally," says the chef and small-holder, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, whose series, TV Dinners, proved he is willing to eat just about anything - as long as it is GM-free. "The ethics of organic farming go hand in hand with the ethics of local shopping." This might be easy for him to say - his small-holding in Dorset provides plenty to supply his table, with enough left over for bartering with nearby farmers.

He does insist that "organic gardening is not as hard as it might sound, especially on a small plot. Plants want to grow. And if you can find the space and time to grow your own, it's the best stuff".

But the proliferation of farmers' markets means even hardened city dwellers can buy fresh produce and be sure about its provenance. You can find your nearest market online at www.farmersmarkets.net, while the Soil Association's Organic Directory lists thousands of organic shops. And where else could you learn about where your food has come from, chat with your friendly neighbourhood herb farmer and find yourself stuffed full of delicious samples of cheese, beef and spicy cider while buying your groceries?

"It's a bit of a Catch-22," says Fearnley-Whittingstall. "The punters need a wide range of produce and the farmers need enough punters to make it worth their while. The more people make the commitment, the better and more frequent these markets will become."

For the lazy, there's an even easier option. The Organic Directory, which can be found online at www.soilassociation.org, lists a staggering number of box delivery schemes that distribute seasonal produce from locations all over the country. They range from the basic to the bewilderingly comprehensive.

But a word of warning: seasonal food may be fresher, tastier and a huge relief for the environment (peas don't need to be air-freighted from Zimbabwe, for example), but you can't give Mother Nature a shopping list. With most schemes, you get what you're given. It's an inspiring challenge for adventurous cooks, but several kilos of lovely, seasonal carrots won't be much use if your dinner party was depending on the ingredients for an apricot soufflé.

Many schemes allow you to add necessities such as potatoes or eggs to your box, but it's heartening to see how abundantly the earth does provide. Eat as nature intended and you might have a lovely surprise.

Even for those of us who are wedded to the supermarket, healthy organic food doesn't have to be just a good intention. Some supermarkets keep their organic products together in a dedicated section, while others store organic versions of their products alongside non-organic stock. "I wish they'd keep all the organic food together so you could go straight to it," says one shopper; but you can train your eye to look out for the "Organic" logo or the green shelf-edging that sometimes denotes an organic product.

The most important thing to look out for is the Soil Association logo. There are several organisations licensed to give the organic stamp, but the Soil Association takes care of 80 per cent of licensing. It also promises that imported crops bearing the organic hallmark will have been subject to the same standards, laid down in European law. A certification from the Association means that all ingredients have been produced without the use of artificial pesticides or weed-killers. Animals are kept free-range, and the routine use of antibiotics and vaccines is not permitted. In processed food, additives such as artificial sweeteners and hydrogenated fat are not allowed. Genetically modified ingredients in food and animal feed are prohibited.

Where supermarkets do keep organic produce next to their non-organic equivalents, the contrast in price can be alarming. In supermarkets, economy-priced eggs cost roughly 45p for six. Half-a-dozen free range eggs might be 75p. But the organic free-range version could easily cost £1.40. Organic ketchup costs almost twice as much as its non-organic equivalent, while the price of organic soft drinks could make your eyes water. This is because farmers who have converted their farms have to bear the associated costs. Naturally, the higher-priced ranges have converted first to the organic alternative. The Prince of Wales's company, Duchy Originals, has been providing organic posh biscuits for years.

You will also notice that much organic produce in supermarkets comes pre-packaged. This is to avoid any confusion with non-organic produce and the packaging is recycled wherever possible. Where produce is sold loose, proof of certification must be available, by law, to consumers. If the retailer cannot prove that the food is genuinely organic, you can contact their supplier and find out about their certification.

The biggest problem now confronting the organic shopper is one of choice. Should you buy from a farmers' market or by mail order; from a supermarket or from organic shops such as Just Natural or Fresh & Wild, which has outlets at every compass point in London? Baby food manufacturers are now converting to organic in hordes - you can even buy organic gummy bears, or mail-order an organic Christmas cake from the Village Bakery Melmerby, in Cumbria.

But here's something to persuade the most hardened cynic. Juniper Green's organic gin has been awarded a Gold Medal at the International Wine and Spirit Festival. What's more, research shows drinking organic "can lessen the morning head". It's down to ethyl acetates, apparently - and it's a far cry from organic tofu and nut roast.

Q&A CERTIFYING ORGANIC FOOD

Who are the certifying bodies?

The Soil Association licenses around 80 per cent of all organic food sold. Thirteen other organisations are also government-approved to carry out inspections - the next largest are Organic Farmers & Growers and The Organic Food Federation. Look for their symbols (left) when you buy organic food, or check for their code numbers; for example, UK5 for the Soil Association and UK2 for Organic Farmers & Growers. All organic farms and food processing companies are inspected at least once a year. Spot checks are also carried out. A major infringement of standards can result in the suspension of a licence and withdrawal of products from the market.

How are imported goods assessed?

You may see the symbols of European certification organisations, such as the French organisation AB (Agriculture Biologique) or Demeter, based in Germany. Organic food that is imported from outside the EU must meet the same standards as food produced in the EU. Checks may involve sending a Soil Association (SA Cert) inspector abroad.

What about non-food items?

There are no legal standards for items such as organic clothing, textiles and beauty products. But beware of mass-produced brands that make organic claims - and call the Soil Association or your local trading standards office to check their credentials.