Wines of the week: Five chenin blancs for October

As a grape that largely goes under the radar, Terry Kirby says in the right hands, these wines can be more versatile than a chardonnay or a sauvignon

Among the well known white wine grapes, chenin blanc tends to fly a bit under the radar of most consumers. There are few wines with a clear identity associated with the grape – there is no real chenin equivalent to, say, sauvignon’s Cloudy Bay or chardonnay’s chablis. Yet, arguably, chenin blanc is, in the hands of the right winemakers, more versatile than either, capable of bone dry young wines as well as oaky, aged wines, gorgeously enervating sparklers and luscious dessert wines.

The grape’s origins lie, of course, in the Loire Valley of central France, where it is used for a variety of wines. The Clos du Gaimont Vouvray 2015 (£12.99 Virginwines.co.uk) is a fine example of the purest and most common expression of Loire chenin blanc – very dry, full-bodied, but with an underlying richness to the signature flavours of apples and apricots. And just, faintly, a touch of honeysuckle, while never becoming sweet. Ideal with white fish dishes or, even better, roast belly pork with sweet potato and butternut squash mash.

It is in sweet dessert wines that those honeyed, apricot-scented luscious flavours come to the fore. The wines of the small area of the Coteaux Du Layon, named after a tributary of the Loire near Anjou, are all made from chenin blanc grapes that have been affected by noble rot or have been sun-dried, helping to create wines of intensity and richness, shot through with characteristic fresh acidity. And only in the village of Chaume do they allow wines to be accorded the Premier Cru name, designed to signify wines of particular quality. It is therefore to Waitrose’s credit that they stock the estimable Domaine Des Forges Coteaux du Layon Chaume (£9.29 Waitrose.com; 37.7cl) A bargain; buy now for Christmas desserts.

The Loire is also the biggest producer of sparkling wines in France outside Champagne, mostly made in the Methode Champenoise fashion using the chenin blanc grape. Fabulous value for money for celebrations and parties, they are dry, light, floral scented, gorgeously refreshing and more sophisticated than most prosecco or cava; it’s a mystery why they are not more popular in the UK. Try the Bouvet Ladubey Saumur NV (£12.99 or £10.99 as part of mixed six-bottle purchase; Majestic.co.uk) from one of the oldest producers to find out yourself.

The only other country to really take chenin blanc to its heart is, of course, South Africa, where the grape takes on a wholly new dimension, adding crisp flavours of limes, peaches, passion fruit and guava to its already complex palate. The Zalze Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2016; (£6 Morrisons.com; until 24 October, normally £7; £6.49 Waitrose.com; until 31 October; normally £8.69) is an excellent value, all-purpose fridge door white. In a similar vein, but much riper and fuller is the Boschendal Chenin Blanc 2017 (£8.50 Tesco.com). Even more enticing is the oak-aged Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc Darling Cellars 2014 (£13.95 Frontierfinewines.co.uk) a complex wine combining minerality with intense layers of tropical fruits; more suited to full-flavoured foods and richer fish dishes, particularly anything garlicky.