Champagne makers woo British by using traditional oak barrels

Champagne makers are replacing modern stainless steel vats with traditional oak barrels to appeal to the British market with a certain je ne sais quoi.

Stainless steel has been de rigueur in champagne production since the 1960s, since it is easier to use. Only certain brands such as Krug and Bollinger have continued to use oak barrels. Now more producers seeking top quality are reverting to the more laborious fermentation method, partly to further penetrate the market in Britain, France's largest champagne importer.

Aged in oak barrels, champagne takes on more subtle, delicate aromas. Wine producers say foreign clients are particularly keen on the colour, sparkle and the distinct flavour which contains delicate hints of vanilla, coconut or brioche.

For some, the extra work is worth it. Many of France's new generation of producers have diplomas in winemaking, and are passionate about creating a high-quality product.

"I age only 30 per cent of my production in oak, but that takes as much time as the rest, because I have to check the casks twice a week," said Emmanuel Fourny, from Vertus. His best quality products, aged nine months in wooden casks, go mainly to the US, Japan and Britain.