A simple plate of girolleswith buttery Lancashire mash

Serves 4

(Photographs by Jason Lowe)

Foraging has its rewards and when you come across a patch of golden girolles, or chanterelles as they are sometimes known, it's a real treat, both visually and taste-wise, especially when perked up with light, buttery potatoes spiked with mature Lancashire cheese. You may think there is rather a lot of butter in this recipe – you're right, there is. But like hollandaise, it's well worth the risk.

300-400g floury potatoes, peeled and quartered
150-200g butter
Milk to mix
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
60-70g mature Lancashire cheese, grated
2tbsp olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
600-700g girolles, cleaned
2tbsp chopped parsley

Cook the potatoes in lightly salted water until tender then drain and return to the pan over a low heat to let any excess water evaporate. Mash the potatoes through a potato ricer or push through a sieve with the back of a spoon to get a fine texture. Return to a pan and stir in three quarters of the butter, season and add enough milk to achieve a sloppy, almost thick, sauce-like consistency. Cover and keep warm.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan; gently fry the garlic and girolles for 3-4 minutes, stirring every so often until soft. Season, add the parsley and the rest of the butter.

To serve, spoon the potatoes on to warmed serving plates, scatter the girolles on top and finish off with a knob of butter.