A plate of girolles, samphire and bacon

Serves 4

The slight saltiness of the samphire and the bacon works well with them as a simple combination for a starter (Jason Lowe)

Our first girolles, or chanterelles as they are sometimes called, arrived in mid-July this year. They are always a welcome edition to the menu, bright yellow, trumpet shaped and meaty in texture. The slight saltiness of the samphire and the bacon works well with them as a simple combination for a starter.

60-70g chunky diced bacon or pancetta
2-3 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil
200-250g girolles, cleaned but not washed
A handful of samphire (about 120-150g)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put a frying pan on a medium heat and cook the bacon with a couple of tablespoons of the oil for 2-4 minutes, turning as they are cooking until lightly coloured.

Add the girolles and keep cooking on a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, still turning them as you go.

Once they are cooked, stir in the samphire and cook for another 30 seconds or so, then remove everything from the heat. Add more oil if necessary and season to taste. Serve immediately.