Tastescape: Where to eat and drink in Dubrovnik, Croatia

The medieval-walled city of Dubrovnik, with its azure ocean, rich food scene and innovative organic wineries amply makes its case as an awesome destination

Got it all: Dubrovnik is a gem of a place, with a fab Old Town, fab beaches, and great bars to chill in (Great British Chefs)

It was the streets made of marble glistening in the sun that first struck me the first time I visited Dubrovnik. Every one of the winding roads seemed to contain its own form of baroque or medieval beauty, with little shops, restaurants or cafés tucked into historic buildings. There are no cars in the Unesco-listed Old Town, either, which just adds to the feeling that you’ve been sent back in time.

Dubrovnik has not been immune to change over the decades. What was once a beautiful but not-so-touristy city is fast becoming one of the most popular destinations in Europe, thanks to its beautiful weather, stunning architecture and incredible food and drink. Known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, the city’s fascinating history is complemented by some of the best beaches in Europe for sipping drinks and doing water sports.

Here is my selection of must-sees and things to do:

Old Town

Recognise it? Dubrovnik’s streets feature heavily in TV series ‘Game of Thrones’

By far the most beautiful area of Dubrovnik, the Old Town has 1,400 years of history and its architecture is some of the most impressive in Europe. Explore the streets and get a feel for the Croatian way of life.

Walk along the city walls

The Old Town is marked out by its famous medieval fortress walls – walking along them provides the perfect vantage point over the city and the sparkling blue waters of the Adriatic. You will come across museums, cafes and even an aquarium, all of which offer amazing views of Dubrovnik’s red rooftops and the Stradun – this quarter’s main street.

Catch a show at the Troubadour Jazz Cafe

If you’re a fan of jazz or just live music in general, a stop at this famous bar is a must. It’s the only place in Dubrovnik that plays live jazz every evening. Most nights the dancing makes its way out into the street, with locals and tourists alike appreciating the band. The terrace looks out over the cathedral, too, so you’ve got some beautiful architecture to look at while you groove along to the music.

Pick up some souvenirs in Gundulic Square

The only open market within the city walls, Gundulic Square is home to an array of local delicacies and typical Croatian products that are perfect for taking home after your trip. Bags full of locally grown dried lavender fill the air with heady, floral scents as you browse the stalls, and there are plenty of Croatian sweets and liqueurs to stock up on. The market is only open until 1pm, so get there early and enjoy the morning sunshine.

Vineyards

Being so close to the beautiful clear waters of the Adriatic Sea means Dubrovnik is home to some truly incredible seafood. Paired with some local wine, there’s nothing quite like a meal in the city.

Mali Ston Bay is home to some of the best oysters in the world

Grab some seafood street food at Barba

Octopus burgers, tempura prawns, local oysters – if you’re a fan of fish and seafood then a meal at Barba is a must. The small family-run restaurant has a lovely atmosphere, is very affordable and serves great local beer to go along with the dishes on offer. You can even leave your mark by writing a message on one of the wooden forks and adding it to the collection on the wall.

Eat the world-famous oysters at Mali Ston Bay

Oysters have been farmed at Mali Ston Bay – just an hour’s drive from Dubrovnik – since Roman times, and are famous the world over for their unique, clean taste. For one of the best experiences in all of Croatia, hop on a boat and sail out to the beds, where one of the farmers will catch, prepare and serve oysters as fresh as they can possibly be. Washed down with some local wine, it’s guaranteed to be the highlight of any foodie’s trip, if not year.

Discover Croatian wine country on the Peljesac Peninsula

Croatian wine has experienced a complete transformation over the past 20 years, going from relatively unknown and generic varieties to some of the most exciting in Europe today. The Peljesac Peninsula is where some of the best is made, and there are many wineries offering tours, tastings and incredible views of the valleys that stretch into the oceans below. The Frano Milos Winery is one of the most exciting in Croatia, making the most of organic local Plavac mali grapes.

The Pejelsac Peninsula not only looks stunning – it’s where Croatia’s most exciting wines are produced

Life by the sea

Whether you’re more of a sun-lounger or like getting involved in some activities on the water, Dubrovnik’s coastline and surrounding islands are one of the main reasons the city is so popular. Pack your swimming costume and enjoy the stunning weather of the Adriatic.

Hire a sea kayak and paddle to Lokrum Island

Seeing the abandoned Benedictine monastery on Lokrum Island is a sight to behold, and offers some of the best photo opportunities of any holiday I’ve been on. To get there, however, you have to take to the water. The best method of transport by far is a sea kayak. Paddling out to the island offers spectacular views of Dubrovnik’s coast, and after a few beers or a coffee on Lokrum you can paddle back as the sun sets.

Bask in the beauty of the Adriatic at Banje Beach

Dubrovnik’s most famous beach is popular for a reason – beautiful sunshine, clean sand and the pale blues of the Adriatic Sea make Banje more like a Caribbean beach than a European one. As well as relaxing on the sand in the sun, you can hire a pedal boat (or even a jet ski) and explore the surrounding coastline.

Refresh yourself at Buza Bar

Buza Bar is one of Dubrovnik’s hottest spots and the perfect place to watch cliff-divers

Dubrovnik is home to many great bars, but Buza Bar is by far the best. Enter through the small gateway in the city walls, order a drink and take a seat while looking out from the cliff and across the ocean. Many come here to take part in a spot of cliff-diving, which is fascinating to watch, and it’s one of the few places in Dubrovnik that you can get a good look at the steep, striking cliffs that surround much of the city.

Still have time to spare?

1. Take the cable car to Mount Srd and see Dubrovnik from above for an unparalleled view of the city. Built in 1969, the cable cars go right up to the Imperial Fortress, where on a clear day you can gaze nearly 40 miles into the distance.
2. Go on a Game of Thrones walking tour and experience the real life settings of places like King’s Landing and the Red Keep. Dubrovnik’s Old Town has been featured in the series since it began, and for any fan of the show this is a must.
3. Go wine-tasting at the Matusko Winery and Wine Bar and discover how much Croatian wine has changed in the past 20 years. While the wineries of the Peljesac Peninsula are famous for making the wine, it’s the bars in Dubrovnik that helped spread the word.