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Health scare over toxin in henna shampoos and hair dyes

Severin Carrell
Sunday 13 October 2002 00:00 BST
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Henna shampoos, cosmetics and hair colourings used by women are at the centre of a health scare, after scientists found that henna contained a highly toxic chemical.

Apanel of scientists last week called for a Europe-wide ban on a chemical which occurs naturally in henna plants.

The European Union's scientific committee on cosmetic products discovered the chemical, lawsone, is toxic to kidneys, the blood supply and parts of the stomach.

The findings have raised concerns about the safety of henna-based products, which are among the most popular shampoos and hair dyes in Britain's £890m-a-year hair care market.

Britain's cosmetics industry body admitted the findings would lead to strict Europe-wide safety checks on henna products and could even force some companies to withdraw henna dyes from sale. "We will discuss this with a sense of urgency, and if the view is that the law should be changed, then the industry will comply," said Dr Chris Flower, head of the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfumery Association.

But despite the panel's findings, there is still uncertainty about the health risks posed by normal henna shampoos, conditioners and dyes. Dr Ian White, the committee's chairman, claimed that the panel had been unable to reach a decision on the safety of henna because the industry had so far failed to carry out enough safety tests. He also predicted that it was highly unlikely that henna products would be banned outright.

"Lawsone is present at about 1 to 2 per cent in henna. Henna has been used for millennia by hundreds of millions of people, and suddenly we've got a nasty chemical in it which, the recommendation is, shouldn't be used. It's very tricky water," Dr White said.

As a result, he said, strict quality controls would be needed to ensure lawsone levels were as low as possible. New controls would probably be introduced after EU health ministers meet later this year.

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