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How shoes are made: An intimate look inside the Grenson shoe factory after 150 years

World-renowned photographer Martin Parr has captured images of workers in Northamptonshire 

Kashmira Gander
Tuesday 13 December 2016 10:13 GMT
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A worker creates the sole of a Grenson shoe
A worker creates the sole of a Grenson shoe (Martin Parr/Magnum, courtesy Rocket Gallery, London)

After making shoes in the loft of a corn merchant's in Northamptonshire for almost a decade, William Green opened the first Grenson shoes factory - brimming with cutting edge technology - in 1874. 150 years later the brand has celebrated its birthday by inviting Magnum photographer Martin Parr to capture the workers who continue its traditions.

Established in 1866, the brand started out with dressy dandy-esque styles for gentlemen in London, turning to more utilitarian designs in the wartime, and even dabbling with on-trend platforms in the 1970s. By the end of the 20th century the shoes were linked to London City boys in the financial district. And despite waves of experimentation, it is the sturdy brogue that then name "Grenson" brings to mind.

“But today we have taken the design on to include some of the experimental spirit of the past,” says Grenson designer Tim Little of the brand's brogues.

“I want Parr’s photographs to show the people who make the shoes,” he adds. “They are what makes a Grenson shoe special and their character goes into every pair.”

Asked about the future, Little explains that the firm only plans a year ahead.

“The speed of change is so fast now that you cant possibly plan too far ahead. So for now its more of the same. Keep developing relevant product, introduce accessories like bags and wallets, keep working with other designers and brands that we can learn from and keep up to date with technology.

This approach appears to have something to it, both for the firm and its workers.

“Two people retired recently who had been with us for 50 years and two have recently clocked up 40 years. They are loyal to us and we are loyal to them. Its proper old school, but im afraid it might be a thing of the past.”

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