The world’s happiest city has another reason to feel smug - it boasts the world’s number one restaurant once again.
Noma (pictured), regained the title, bestowed by Restaurant magazine last year; apart from 2013 it has scooped the award every year since 2010.
I haven’t been – the waiting list stretches far beyond the scope of a long-weekend jolly, as well as my budget. But it’s no surprise that insta-foodies worldwide are giving Denmark its moment in cuisine.
Chefs rave about its freshest, saltiest herring; magazines turn rye bread and smorgasbord into pornography. Why then, is it so damn hard to find a decent bite to eat around here?
Turn away from idyllic Nyhavn harbour and the Scandi-noir film setting coastline and you’ll see burger joint after burger joint, with the odd sushi bar. Is there nowhere serving good, affordable food, preferably from the sea, with a smattering of greenery on the side? “Burgers are our token food!” laughs a Danish friend, giddy like a post-Cold War townsman celebrating the arrival of McDonald’s.
It makes perfect sense really – Copenhageners are the original hipsters, with their fixie-bikes and eccentrically groomed moustaches, so unaware of the irony it’s ironic.
A Dalston-style approach to idolising the humble beef in a bun is but a natural progression. Curly fries it is, then, so long as they accompany the only meal available to me for under 150 Krone (£14.50). Just stop at the pulled pork, Denmark, or before you know it this will all be replaced by cat cafes and cereal.
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