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Postcard from... Copenhagen

 

Rachael Pells
Wednesday 29 April 2015 19:38 BST
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Noma has taken the award as the world's best restaurant for five out of the past six years
Noma has taken the award as the world's best restaurant for five out of the past six years (AFP/Getty)

The world’s happiest city has another reason to feel smug - it boasts the world’s number one restaurant once again.

Noma (pictured), regained the title, bestowed by Restaurant magazine last year; apart from 2013 it has scooped the award every year since 2010.

I haven’t been – the waiting list stretches far beyond the scope of a long-weekend jolly, as well as my budget. But it’s no surprise that insta-foodies worldwide are giving Denmark its moment in cuisine.

Chefs rave about its freshest, saltiest herring; magazines turn rye bread and smorgasbord into pornography. Why then, is it so damn hard to find a decent bite to eat around here?

Turn away from idyllic Nyhavn harbour and the Scandi-noir film setting coastline and you’ll see burger joint after burger joint, with the odd sushi bar. Is there nowhere serving good, affordable food, preferably from the sea, with a smattering of greenery on the side? “Burgers are our token food!” laughs a Danish friend, giddy like a post-Cold War townsman celebrating the arrival of McDonald’s.

It makes perfect sense really – Copenhageners are the original hipsters, with their fixie-bikes and eccentrically groomed moustaches, so unaware of the irony it’s ironic.

A Dalston-style approach to idolising the humble beef in a bun is but a natural progression. Curly fries it is, then, so long as they accompany the only meal available to me for under 150 Krone (£14.50). Just stop at the pulled pork, Denmark, or before you know it this will all be replaced by cat cafes and cereal.

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