Grandad's Army ready for 8,000 English fans

Residents of Japanese city brace themselves for 'dreadful things' as football supporters journey north

Takeshi Saito spreads the map across the table and traces his finger across it like a general on the eve of a great battle. "This is the subway station where many of them will arrive," he says. "And this is Ogawa Park, the most dangerous area. Our worry is they will put up tents and camp, so we will be keeping a careful eye out. They will probably walk down this road here, towards the stadium over here."

But whichever way they come and in whatever numbers, 72-year old Mr Saito and his forces will be waiting.

Eight thousand England fans are expected in Sapporo for today's confrontation with Argentina, and in getting here they face a range of obstacles.

The city is 700 expensive miles north of Tokyo, and many hotels and inns are booked up. In Sapporo itself, 7,000 police have been mobilised, armed with riot equipment including tear gas and net guns. But Sapporo's last line of defence comes in the vicinity of the stadium itself: Mr Saito and 80 other pensioners, members of the local neighbourhood watch.

Last night, after weeks of preparation, they went on their first patrol – 70 elderly gentlemen with eight members of the "ladies' patrol". They operate in units of 25, wearing floppy sunhats and yellow armbands. "We started this group because of the possibility of the football supporters doing dreadful things," Mr Saito explains. "People are afraid that there might be injuries and deaths. If we see someone being hurt by football supporters, we may have to help them. But in general I have advised my members to run away."

There has not been a single violent incident in the first week of the 2002 World Cup, but despite that the city of Sapporo has got its knickers in a terrible twist. All over town, businesses are shutting down, people are staying at home and local leaders such as Mr Saito are preparing their people for violence, destruction and death.

Nobuaki Sato, head of the World Cup Promotion Office at the Sapporo city government, says: "This is going to be one of the best games in the whole World Cup, but all people think about is hooligans.

"If you ask me, we're overreacting to something that isn't going to happen, because of the excesses of the Japanese media and the nervousness of the Japanese police."

On the main road from the local subway station to the Sapporo Dome are six glass-fronted car showrooms; last night, all but one were putting their cars into safer storage for 36 hours.

Chained bicycles are removed from the street, for fear that they could be used as weapons. Mr Saito and his Grandad's Army scan vigilantly for flowerpots for the same reason. "We did the same thing for the two previous matches," says Shinichi Kanno of the Yanase Car Showroom (Germany v Saudi Arabia and Italy v Ecuador have already been played in Sapporo). "But the match tomorrow has the highest risk of all."

In Susukino, the city's neon-lit entertainment district, all of the shops have had visits from the police advising them on precautions.

At the Hendix bar, whose glass front faces directly on to the street, they intend to stay open but to monitor the atmosphere closely. "If we hear England are losing the game, or if people start throwing things near here or staring through the windows, then we might close," says the manager, Ikasu Kuroki.

Assistant Chief Constable Ron Hogg, leader of the British police contingent in Japan, believes the worst that is likely is a handful of arrests for drunkenness. Around town yesterday, there was no sign of trouble. In the "fan village" – a collection of stands and stalls in Sapporo's central park – England and Argentina supporters mingled happily in the sunshine.

Earlier they had a friendly match, which ended ominously – a 1-1 draw, with victory for Argentina on penalties.