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Hyderabad city guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in India’s tech hub

Take the ultimate trip to ‘Cyberabad’

Shilpa Ganatra
Thursday 07 February 2019 13:25 GMT
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Charminar is a mosque that looks as charming as it sounds
Charminar is a mosque that looks as charming as it sounds

Hyderabad is famous for pearls and biriyani, but the Indian city also attracts the largest global tech companies – lending it the nickname “Cyberabad”.

It’s intriguing to see how this international presence blends with the bustle of a modern Indian city, and the antiquity found in well-preserved attractions like Chowmahalla Palace and Charminar Mosque. Daily direct flights with British Airways mean it’s never been easier to find out.

What to do

Charminar

Built in the 16th century to mark the end of the plague, the exquisitely crafted mosque of Charminar is now the landmark of Hyderabad. It stands proudly at the centre of a busy junction, but there’s plenty of nearby pedestrianised areas to gawp at it in safety. Non-Muslims are allowed to enter the mosque. Open 9am-5.30pm daily.

Golconda Fort

Golcanda Fort (0091 40-23512401) was originally built in the 12th century but grew to become a complex of palaces, defences and temples. Climb up its hill to survey Hyderabad in all its glory, or head to the Queen’s Palace at 7pm for a sound and light show. Open 8am-5.30pm daily; 200Rs (£2.20) entry.

Stately Chowmahalla Palace has a room of swords and vintage car collection (Getty)

Chowmahalla Palace

Formerly the residence of the Nizam monarchs of Hyderabad, Chowmahalla Palace (0091 40 2452 2032) features four major buildings within well-kept gardens and courtyards. Begin at the impressive Durbar Hall, decorated with huge chandeliers dripping with Belgian crystal, and work your way around the exhibitions of regal finery, from its rooms of swords to its vintage car collection. Open 10am–5pm daily, closed Fridays; 200Rs (£2.20) entry.

Salar Jung Museum

Allow a few hours to explore the Salar Jung Museum – with nearly 100,000 rare items on display, it’s one of the largest museums in India. Its Quran collection is the largest draw, but the Indian jade daggers and Veiled Rebecca by Giovanni Maria Benzoni are other highlights. Open 10am-5pm daily, closed Fridays; 200Rs (£2.20) entry.

The city’s famous Charminar Mosque (Getty/iStock)

Where to stay

Decent hotels are affordable to even those on meagre budgets. To start, try Lemon Tree Hotels, the Premier Inn of India. Its budget-friendly prices are achieved with economies of scale and a no-fuss approach to clean and modern accommodation. Doubles from Rs3,390 (£37), B&B. For those on a stricter budget, sister brand Red Fox is just the ticket. Doubles from Rs2,499 (£28), B&B.

As a splash-out option that’s also value for money, the ITC Kohenur in Hi-tec City is a contemporary five-star with Indian touches in its décor alongside tech conveniences. Bedroom ambience and guest services are controlled through personal iPads. The hotel’s parent company was the first large carbon-positive conglomerate, so there’s no guilt in whacking the aircon to full blast in the summer months. Doubles from Rs15,435 (£140), B&B.

The ITC Kohenur balances great value with five-star amenities

Daspalla Hyderabad is well-placed for the nightlife in Jubilee Hills. It’s a three-star with nicely kitted rooms and a plush restaurant and bar. Best of all, there’s a rooftop pool with great views of the area and Hi-tec City in the distance. Doubles from Rs3,600 (£40), B&B.

Where to eat

First thing’s first: you can’t leave Hyderabad without trying its biryani. This is where the Mughal one-pot dish was popularised and it’s still hugely celebrated. Biryani is a speciality at Shadab (0091 780 976 6659), where patrons can see the chefs at work as they wait for their dish, priced at around Rs270 (£3). Open 5am-2am daily.

Paradise is a locally famous no-frills restaurant that does wondrous things with spices. There are 16 branches dotted around Hyderabad.

For indecisive visitors, Flechazo is a buffet-style eatery that serves Mediterrean-Asian fusion food – expect made-to-order pizza, chaats on a conveyor belt like a sushi bar, ice cream prepared with liquid nitrogen and much more. This one needs booking in advance. Open 11.30am-4pm and 6.30pm-midnight daily.

Biryani was popularised in the city and is a must-try for visitors (Getty/iStock)

In the main drag of Jubilee Hills you’ll find United Kitchens of India (0091 40 2311 4114) serving an expansive range of Indian dishes in a contemporary, creative ambience. Note that it’s the norm for menus to be worryingly long in Hyderabad. Open 12.30-3.30pm and 7pm-11.30pm daily.

To finish off a meal, one of the best-loved dessert cafes is Cream Stone. It’s a nationwide chain that began in Hyderabad, where it now has 12 outlets serving tempting sundaes, desserts, milkshakes and cones.

Where to drink

Given the quality of homebrewed chai, neighbourhood cafes are revised into more grandiose propositions like Chit Chat Chai. Its creamy masala chai is a must, but it also serves concoctions like banana walnut lassi, kiwi and green apple ice tea and Oreo chai frappe, alongside breakfast food. Open 8.30am weekends/10am weekdays-midnight.

For something a little stronger, Heart Cup Coffee in Jubilee Hills (0091 756 900 3010) not only gives a caffeine hit but turns into a buzzy bar with live music as day turns into night. Open 10.30am-midnight daily.

Chai culture replaces cafe culture in Hyderabad (Getty/iStock)

There’s a small but significant craft brewery scene in Hyderabad. The resulting beers are of varying quality, but there’ll be something to suit your tastes at the convivial microbrewery Prost. Open midday-midnight.

Where to shop

Known as the City of Pearls, Hyderabad’s jewellery stores are the sole reason for many a visit – a pearl earring and necklace set begins at around £50. It’s possible to find a bargain in the Punjagutta area, busy with shops selling pearls and gemstones, but Mangatrai jewellers provide more assurance. Diamonds, for example, come with a certificate, and there’s no haggling on the already reasonable price.

Elsewhere, Laad Baazar is found at the foot of Charminar, selling bangles, costume jewellery, bridalwear and household goods. It’s an experience to take it all in, but not necessarily a place you’ll find a perfect memento of the trip.

Laad Baazar is an intoxicating market at the foot of Charminar (Getty/iStock)

Try Shilparamam Crafts Village for souvenirs. This recreates the traditional Indian village life of the artisans, who sell wares including statues, pottery and wall art. In the evening, there are classical dances to add to the vibe. Entry Rs50 (55p). Open 10.30am-8pm daily.

Architectural highlight

Experience the acoustic features of the Clapping Portico in Golconda Fort, where loud noises carry all the way to the Bala Hisar pavilion at the top of a hill a kilometre away. In the nearby Whispering Gallery, words spoken in one corner of the arched room travel clearly and crisply to the opposite corner. Position your travel companion accordingly and give it a whirl.

Golconda Fort has sublime acoustic features (Getty/iStock)

Hyderabad nuts and bolts

What currency do I need?

Indian rupees.

What language do they speak?

Telugu is the official language but Hindi, Urdu and English are also widely spoken.

Should I tip?

Tipping is less expected in Hyderabad than the UK, but 10 to 15 per cent at a restaurant or for a driver is polite for reasonable service.

What’s the time difference?

Five hours and 30 minutes ahead of the UK.

What’s the average flight time from the UK?

London to Hyderabad direct is around 10 hours.

Public transport

Hiring a driver for the day is a popular and affordable option. For short journeys, auto rickshaws are readily available on main streets, but Uber also works.

Best view

Enjoy a cocktail on the rooftop terrace of the ITC Kohenur to see (and hear) the electric activity of Hi-Tec City on one side, and the soft, shimmering lights of Old Hyderabad on the other.

Insider tip

Be extra conscious about your water consumption here. Hyderabad’s geography and weather, coupled with the recent rise in population, means clean water is a commodity.

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