The Independent’s journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission.

B&B and Beyond: Querido B&B, Villa Crespo, Buenos Aires

The Villa Crespo district is on the up, with new delis, boutiques and this characterful B&B, says Sorrel Moseley-Williams

Sorrel Moseley-Williams
Saturday 27 April 2013 18:33
Comments

Amid a mélange of cobblers, Jewish delis and fashion outlets, the bright and breezy townhouse that harbours Querido B&B is a symbol of leisurely gentrification in Buenos Aires's Villa Crespo neighbourhood. A stone's throw from hip yet over-subscribed Palermo Soho, Villa Crespo retains a quirky personality and for now, it's still largely residential. Recently, it has seen an influx of discount outlets flogging cut-price clothing. Shiny signs now jostle for attention with vegetarian restaurants and corner cafés. The place to rest your head in Villa Crespo is Querido, a new-build on a cobbled street that sports rescued features from the early 20th-century townhouse it replaced, and is one of a handful of B&Bs in the Argentine capital.

The bed

Although Querido is purpose-built, there's still a sense of place. Salvaged features include the 1920s cedar front-door, while the living room sports the original floorboards.

Each of the seven double rooms – located on the first and second floors – has been designed by the owners and has a hip-yet-homely personality. Combining bedside tables snapped up at the Mercado de Pulgas (flea market) as well as personal trinkets, the look is eclectic. The bedding is top-of-the-line Egyptian cotton, the mattresses are supremely comfortable and there's free Wi-Fi throughout. Fluffy towels and a walk-in shower are the norm in the en-suite bathrooms.

The breakfast

Any intention of devouring an enormous steak at lunchtime will be vanquished by Querido's substantial Argentine breakfast. It's served in the contemporary kitchen overlooking the patio. Brazilian coffee permeates the air while amiable staff serve up sugary pastries, cold cuts, ham and cheese croissants, granola, fruit salad, and freshly squeezed orange juice.

The hosts

Querido – which means "dear" in Spanish – is the project of Surrey-born Alastair Mason and his Brazilian wife, Mariana Pereira, who met in Buenos Aires several years ago. Respectively taking time off from a career in PR and undertaking a postgraduate course, these two brought Querido to life over a two-year period, opening in May 2010. After several years in the barrio, their local knowledge is impressive and the Anglo-Brazilian couple happily impart their wisdom in three languages.

The weekend

By day, Villa Crespo fills up with bargain hunters looking for last season's polo shirts at Etiqueta Negra (Gurruchaga 770; 00 54 11 4772 7146; etiquetanegra.us) or leather accessories at Cardón (Loyola 752; 00 54 11 4772 7146; cardon.com.ar). On Calle Murillo, tourists come to track down cowhide in all its forms.

When your credit card begs for a break, refuel at Jewish deli La Crespo (Thames 612; 00 54 11 4856 9770; lacrespo.com) with a New York-style bagel loaded with smoked salmon. Or try homemade pasta at vegetarian haunt Almacén Purista (Juan Ramirez de Velazco 701; 00 54 11 4779 2210; almacenpurista.com).

Night owls flock to watering-holes such as tapas bar La Esperanza de los Ascurra (Aguirre 526; 00 54 11 2058 8313; esperanzaascurra.com.ar), speakeasy 878 (Thames 878; 00 54 11 4773 1098; 878bar.com.ar) or La Cava Jufré (Jufré 201; 00 54 11 4775 7501; lacavajufre.com.ar) to sample a juicy Malbec.

For more action, cross Avenida Córdoba to unearth Palermo Soho, a neighbourhood rammed with boutiques, cafés and bars open beyond the crack of dawn. For the classic steak, Don Julio (Guatemala 4699; 00 54 11 4832 6058) will grill the ojo de bife of your dreams, while drinking spots include Moroccan-style Rey de Copas (Gorriti 5176; 00 54 11 2068 5220; facebook.com/reydecopasbar) and model magnet Isabel (Uriarte 1664; 00 54 11 4834 6969; isabel.bz). Palermo also houses La Rural exhibition centre, host of the arteBA contemporary art exhibition from 24 to 27 May (arteba.org) and Feria del Libro book fair, which runs until 13 May (el-libro.org.ar).

The pit-stop

One new restaurant to create a buzz is I Latina (00 54 11 4857 9095; ilatinabuenosaires.com). A puerta cerrada or closed-door eatery owned by brothers Santiago and Camilo Macías. The six-course Colombian-Caribbean fixed menu changes each month, costing 490 pesos (£62) with wine pairings and 360 pesos (£46) without. Chef Santiago's innovations include deconstructed salmon tartare, ocean-fresh ceviche or coffee-infused, slow-braised lamb. Reservations only.

The essentials

Querido B&B, Juan Ramirez de Velazco 934, Buenos Aires, Argentina (00 54 11 4854 6297; queridobuenosaires.com). Doubles start at US$115 (£77), including breakfast.

Register for free to continue reading

Registration is a free and easy way to support our truly independent journalism

By registering, you will also enjoy limited access to Premium articles, exclusive newsletters, commenting, and virtual events with our leading journalists

Please enter a valid email
Please enter a valid email
Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number
Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number
Must be at least 6 characters, include an upper and lower case character and a number
Please enter your first name
Special characters aren’t allowed
Please enter a name between 1 and 40 characters
Please enter your last name
Special characters aren’t allowed
Please enter a name between 1 and 40 characters
You must be over 18 years old to register
You must be over 18 years old to register
Opt-out-policy
You can opt-out at any time by signing in to your account to manage your preferences. Each email has a link to unsubscribe.

By clicking ‘Create my account’ you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use, Cookie policy and Privacy notice.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy policy and Terms of service apply.

Already have an account? sign in

By clicking ‘Register’ you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use, Cookie policy and Privacy notice.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy policy and Terms of service apply.

Register for free to continue reading

Registration is a free and easy way to support our truly independent journalism

By registering, you will also enjoy limited access to Premium articles, exclusive newsletters, commenting, and virtual events with our leading journalists

Already have an account? sign in

By clicking ‘Register’ you confirm that your data has been entered correctly and you have read and agree to our Terms of use, Cookie policy and Privacy notice.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy policy and Terms of service apply.

Join our new commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in