Machias Seal Island: Why Canada and the US are fighting over this tiny bird sanctuary

This tiny spit of rock in New Brunswick’s Bay of Fundy is claimed by two countries. Lynn Houghton discovers the island’s fascinating history

Lynn Houghton
Saturday 21 September 2019 12:54 BST
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Puffins on Machias Island
Puffins on Machias Island

It’s nearly 2.30am and the low-pitched moan of a foghorn has been sounding regularly for some time now. It emanates from the ancient Swallowtail Lighthouse perched on a spit of land known as North Head and permeates through the dense shroud of cloud that has settled over the island. The bleak warning has an ominous quality, particularly given the shipping accidents that have occurred here in the past. Every few minutes, the sound furtively creeps into our cottage on Whale Cove as we attempt to sleep. The mist covered cove is quiet, the water still, the only vessels visible a few empty kayaks.

After crossing on the ferry to get to Grand Manan Island, conditions have created a waiting game. With any luck, I will make it out to my destination, Machias Seal Island, but all depends on the weather gods. This mile-long speck of rock, about 30km out to sea, has no pier and its only structures are a lighthouse which was built and is maintained by the Canadian government, plus living quarters for two lightkeepers and students. The island is a well-known bird sanctuary and home to thousands of pelagic birds – including Razorbill Auks, Common Murres and Atlantic Puffins – during nesting season. But perhaps more interesting is the back story. Machias Seal Island (MSI) is disputed territory between Canada and the US, with both countries claiming ownership. The unresolved argument dates right back to the War of 1812 which was, basically, a continuation of the Revolutionary Way between loyalist (Great Britain) Canada and the fledgling United States.

Weather isn’t the only obstacle when sailing to Machias Seal Island. Another aspect to consider on the lower Bay of Fundy is extremely high tides – the highest in the world, in fact. When activated by the tidal activity, seas here collide with the Atlantic Ocean, creating turbulence and ferocious waves. So, the 14m-long MV Day’s Catch, with its petite skiff for tendering passengers (5m) only sails when weather and water allow.

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