Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

The world's coolest road trip

Saturday 16 October 2004 00:00 BST
Comments

WHY HIGHWAY 1?

WHY HIGHWAY 1?

America has always been linked with the car and this drive, in the state that many feel epitomises the country, links two of the US's best loved cities. Highway 1 stretches along the Californian coast, and the section between Los Angeles and San Francisco is a manageable and decidedly cool trip. From the glamour of Los Angeles through the mission towns and surf beaches, you progress to the devastating beauty of Big Sur before hitting hip San Francisco at the journey's end. Despite temptation, the driver should remember to concentrate on the road, particularly while negotiating the precipitous, cliff-hugging stretches. Rather stop at a seaside town to appreciate the crashing Pacific waves and dramatic coastline. Above all, Highway 1, long regarded as one of the world's great drives, should be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.

WHERE?

Fly from Heathrow direct to Los Angeles (LA), pick up your rental car and set off north to San Francisco. Most people spend a few days in the "the city" before heading on a direct flight home.

DO

The first stretch, between LA and Santa Barbara, has little of interest unless the spiritual or theosophic are your thing. In which case make a side trip inland to Ojai, home to the Krishnamurti Retreat, and the Krotona Institute of Theosophy. The problems of the world solved, head along the coast to Montecito, which is home to Oprah Winfrey, Jeff Bridges, Rob Lowe and John Cleese, among others. A short hop brings you to Spanish-flavoured Santa Barbara, where you should visit its fine mission, which was founded in 1786 and rebuilt in 1925 after an earthquake. Back on the road stop in Solvang, a small Danish enclave. Otherwise keep on going as Highway 1 leaves the coast, which you reach again at Pismo Beach with its magnificent sand dunes. Between autumn and spring it's also famed as a haven for migrating Monarch butterflies. Back inland, once more, San Luis Obispo has a funky, student feel and an historic centre. After you've passed Morro Bay, and the 576ft volcanic dome-shaped Morro Rock, you may want to look round Cambria. Most of Highway 1's delights are natural, though a notable exception is Hearst Castle overlooking San Simeon. Reserve in advance to get into this 123-acre mountaintop estate of the late publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst. On the way to and around Big Sur, mountain ridges of the Santa Lucia Range plunge into the Pacific and 90 miles of twisting road skirt sheer cliffs high over the sea. Impressive are the redwood groves and rugged headlands. The Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is a great place to stretch your legs. There's no beach access, but there are 3,000ft-high ridges, and a short trail along the bluff to see McWay Falls pour 80 feet into a picturesque bell-shaped cove. Fans of Henry Miller, the writer who lived in the area from 1944-1962, will want to visit the Henry Miller Memorial Library, perched among towering redwoods. At an easy-to-reach beach at Garrapata State Park you'll find some of Big Sur's most striking coastline, and look out for sea otters, sea lions, and whales. Aquatic life is easier to spot in Monterey which has one of the country's best aquariums. Further on, Santa Cruz's Surfing Museum occupies a lighthouse aptly overlooking Steamer Lane, a popular surfing beach. Head on to your destination, San Francisco, where you can traverse the famed Golden Gate Bridge.

SLEEP

There are plenty of choices if you want to break your journey. These include the romantic Inn of the Spanish Garden in Santa Barbara, as well as the Four Seasons Resort Santa Barbara. Britney Spears has stayed there, and it was there that J-LO and Ben Affleck were supposed to tie the knot before calling it off. Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin held their wedding party at the San Ysidro Ranch, and J-LO and Marc Anthony stayed there shortly after getting married. The Bacara Resort is another good choice. The obvious place to stay outside San Luis Obispo is the pink Madonna Inn. Avoid if themed rooms and kitsch aren't your thing. In the exclusive Big Sur area try the Esalen Institute, founded in 1962, and once frequented by hipsters like Joan Baez, Bob Dylan and Aldous Huxley. However you'd better be a rich hippie if you want to stay for a night or longer at the retreat. Alternatively visit the hot springs or get a healing massage. The luxurious yet organic Ventana Inn is all about being pampered, and it attracts many of the Hollywood crowd. Most of the guests remove their all of the clothes to better enjoy the open-air pool and spa area. You can stay in stilted cabin suites with balconies facing sea or forest. There is camping as well , but we're talking huge luxury motorhomes rather than little nylon tents. You don't have to go far for another hip and budget-blowing spot: virtually across the road is the Post Ranch Inn, with superb service, highly accommodating staff and gorgeous rooms.

EAT

Choices along the route include Lucky's in Montecito for steaks and celebs, Bouchon in Santa Barbara which serves stylish food and wine. Roy is cool and fashionable but not too pricey, and in Cambria try the Black Cat Bistro. The Big Sky Café is always worth a visit, as is Nepenthe in Big Sur, perched 800 feet above sea-level, with jaw-dropping views of mountains and coast. In Pacific Grove try the Fishwife at Asilomar,with its excellent seafood and fine beach views. In Monterey, the Montrio is located in a converted fire station.

Cool drives

Venice to Dubrovnik

To drive the length of the Adriatic Highway would require motoring from Italy to Greece; this shorter, more manageable trip still does it ample justice. Hopping out of a gondola and into your car in Venice, the highway takes you into Croatia, where the elegant Opatija appears. Split houses the ruins of the Diocletian's Palace as you cruise along the Dalmatian coast, with the option of leaving the car to explore the captivating islands. Then wander the stunning white walls that surround Dubrovnik.

St Tropez to Monaco

Dubbed the "California of Europe", the Côte D'Azur has all the sun and fun a boy or girl could need. St Tropez is the epitome of cool, but should you not be able to afford the yacht you can hit Cannes, home to the famous film festival with lights, camera and action for the rest of the year too. Next stop is Nice, where the old town boasts great bistros and galleries, and then on to Monaco, home of glitz, glamour and Monte Carlo, where you can gamble away all the money you haven't spent on the way.

Route 62, South Africa

The increasingly over-crowded Garden Route might be South Africa's most famous road trip, but over the mountains, lies an alternative, Route 62. This spectacular, unspoilt stretch of road between the Langeberg and Outeniqua mountain ranges, slices through this less-explored region of the Western Cape. Touted as the world's longest wine route, Route 62 offers brandy and port production, ostrich farming, quirky guesthouses, vertigo-inducing mountain passes and sleepy towns.

Travel facts: Highway 1

Krishnamurti Retreat

(001 805 646 4773; www.kfa.org)

Krotona Institute of Theosophy

(001 630 668 1571; www.theosophical.org/centers/)

Santa Barbara Mission

(001 805 682 4713)

Hearst Castle

(001 805 927 2020; www.hearstcastle.org)

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

(001 831 667 2315)

Henry Miller Memorial Library

(001 831 667 2574; www.henrymiller.org)

Monterey Aquarium

(001 831 648 4888; www.mbayaq.org)

Santa Cruz Surfing Museum

(001 831 420 6289; www.santacruzmuseums.org/surfin.html)

Inn of the Spanish Garden

Santa Barbara (001 805 564 4700; spanishgardeninn.com)

Four Seasons Resort Santa Barbara

(001 805 969 2261; www.fourseasons.com)

San Ysidro Ranch

(001 800 368 6788; www.sanysidroranch.com)

Bacara Resort

(001 805 968 0100; www.bacararesort.com)

Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo

(001 805 543 3000; www.madonnainn.com)

Esalen Institute

(001 831 667 3000; www.esalen.org)

Ventana Inn

(00 1 831 667 2331; ventanainn.com)

Big Sur Post Ranch Inn

(001 837 661 2200; www.postranchinn.com)

Lucky's, Montecito

(001 805 565 7540)

Bouchon, Santa Barbara

(001 805 730 1160; www.bouchon.net)

Roy, Santa Barbara

(001 805 966 5636)

Black Cat Bistro, Cambria

(001 805 927 1600)

Big Sky Café, San Luis Obispo

(001 805 545 5401; www.bigskycafe.com)

Nepenthe, Big Sur

(001 831 667 2345; nepenthebigsur.com)

Fishwife at Asilomar, Pacific Grove

(001 831 375 7107; www.fishwife.com)

Montrio, Monterey

(001 831 648 8880; www.montrio.com)

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in