A drop in the ocean

Now is the ideal time to plan that winter escape to warmer climes. If Thailand is on your list, you'll need a guide to the hot new island destinations

Like strings of beach-fringed pearls set amid warm, blue seas, the myriad islands of Thailand are one of the country's biggest draws. Phuket, Koh Samui and Koh Phi Phi have all become well-established destinations. However, finding the sense of peace and timeless beauty that first attracted visitors to these islands is harder to come by. For the adventurous who seek an island retreat without the crowds, but with all the indulgence of comfort and service, the remoter islands are starting to appeal. From the eastern archipelago of Koh Chang, through to Bangkok's favourite, Koh Samet, the dive paradise of Koh Tao and the relaxed charm of Koh Lanta Yai, these islands provide superb accommodation and easier access. With the Tourism Authority of Thailand's avowed aim of creating sustainable, environmentally sensitive tourism, one hopes the mistakes of the past will not be repeated.

Koh Samet

A tiny sliver of white-sand beach, set amid clear azure seas, Koh Samet is, in fact, part of a national park ­ entrance fee 200 baht (£3) ­ and the its proximity to Bangkok, just a three-hour drive, makes it a favourite weekend destination. Only 6km long and less than 500m wide at its narrowest point, the sea is never far away. It's pretty easy to explore on foot, though most people prefer to do nothing more than lounge on the beach, occasionally dipping their toes in the water. The east coast is almost continuous beach, thronged with bungalows and bars. Hat Sai Kaew is the focal point; the sands and sea are divine, although it can become crowded. There's only one small pretty beach, Ao Proa, on the west side of Koh Samet, but some splendid cliffside walks.

How to get there: Buses leave every 15 minutes from the Eastern Bus Terminal near Ekamai Skytrain station in Bangkok to Rayong. The journey takes two hours 30 minutes and costs 100 baht (£1.80). Then it's a further half-hour by bus or taxi to Ban Phe Phe, followed by a short ferry ride to Koh Samet. A taxi directly from Bangkok to Ban Phe Phe should cost no more than 2,000 baht (£30) ­ negotiate a price before setting off.

Where to stay: The Ao Prao Resort (00 66 2 438 9771; www.aopraoresort.com) is a collection of pleasant bungalows centred on the quiet Ao Prao beach. Next door, the Le Virmarn is a sleek upmarket resort with a pool and wonderful cottages. If you want to stay near the action, the Sai Kaew Beach Resort has a run of simple and stylish beachside cabins. All three resorts are managed by the same group and prices start from 2,750 baht (£40) for Ao Prao and Sai Kaew and 7,000 baht (£110) at Le Virmarn.

What to do: There are regular snorkelling trips to the small islands that surround Koh Samet, and a dive school at Ao Prao Resort. But the best thing to do is as little as possible.

Koh Chang

Only 10 years ago, Koh Chang (at 30km long, Thailand's second biggest island) was so little known it hadn't even made it into backpackers' guide books. Today it stands on the threshold of being Thailand's next big island destination. At the end of 2002, an airport will open at nearby Trat with the express purpose of turning Koh Chang into a new Phuket ­ one million visitors a year are expected by 2004. If Koh Chang can hang on to its luxuriant interior ­ which at the moment is well protected ­ and keep its stunning beaches clean, it will become the country's premier sustainable holiday destination. In the far east of Thailand, Koh Chang is part of an archipelago that makes up a national park. All boats from the mainland arrive on the east side of the island. The west side is where all the best beaches are to be found. The busiest, Sai Khao, is a run of backpacker bungalows, video bars and sarong shops. The interior is mostly untouched mountainous rainforest filled with wild boar, snakes, tropical birds and beautiful exotic flowers. There are also some easily accessible waterfalls, great for freshwater dips.

How to get there: Until the Trat airport opens, getting to Koh Chang remains a tricky affair. Some agents run minibuses to the island: contact the Thai tourist office (details below) for a list. The journey time is roughly six hours and fares cost from 500 baht (£8). Alternatively, buses leave every hour for the six-hour journey from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal next to the Ekamai Skytrain station, with fares from 190 baht (£3). From Trat it's a short minibus ride to the piers at Laem Ngob and Centre Point, fare 20 baht (33p) and then a 45-minute crossing to Koh Chang, with fares from 60 baht (£1).

Where to stay: The well-designed, brand new Boutique Resort and Spa (00 66 9 938 6403; www.koh-chang.com/boutique) on Ao Klong Phroa beach has excellent en-suite bungalows which have a distinctive Thai style. It also has a fine restaurant, a well-managed spa, and a dive shop next door (www.ecodivers.co.th). Doubles cost from 2,000 baht (£30) per night.

What to do: Laze on the beaches. Explore by moped, which costs 350 baht (£5.50) for 24 hours' hire. Go elephant trekking. Take a walk in the interior. Go diving and snorkelling ­ there's a dive school next to Boutique resort.

Koh Tao

A tiny speck in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Tao was once a place where political prisoners were incarcerated. These days, this gorgeous island, with its mix of rocky secluded coastline and palm-fringed beaches, attracts travellers who want to relax or learn to scuba dive. (Koh Tao hosts the highest concentration of dive schools in Asia.) The seas around Koh Tao are an excellent place to learn to dive, with weak currents, good visibility and a full repertoire of exotic fish and corals. However, bad practices by some of the less scrupulous dive schools, plus bad storms, have been killing off coral and driving the bigger fish away. Koh Tao also has terrible water shortages. How the island overcomes these issues will have a huge bearing on its future.

How to get there: About 12 trains to Chumphon leave Bangkok daily. The journey takes eight hours, with fares starting from 300 baht (£4.50). Get an early train to connect with the daily boats that go from Chumpon to Koh Tao in two to six hours, with fares costing 150 to 500 baht (£2.30-£8). Or fly with Andaman Airlines (www.airandaman.com) to Chumphon ­ for 3,600 baht (£55) return. Private speedboats can also be rented for transfers from Chumphon, which seat 10 and cost about 20,000 baht (£300) ­ though you'll have to negotiate on the day.

Where to stay: Set on the far end of Sairee beach, Coral Grand Resort (00 66 2 629 2916; www.kohtaocoral.com) offers both a dive school and superb accommodation. A new resort with a very well-run and equipped dive school, its bungalows are stylish to a fault. It's also one of only two places on the island that has its own pool, making it an excellent choice for scuba beginners ­ they'll even let you do a free test dive. Bungalows start from 1,900 baht (£30) with online reductions.

What to do: With 200,000 Padi certificates handed out last year and Open Water courses costing about 6,500 baht (£110), learning to scuba is what most people visit Koh Tao for. There are more than 20 dive schools on the island, some operating like Padi factories. Whichever dive school you choose, make sure the equipment is new, well maintained and has a low student to instructor ratio. The best courses, with no more than five students per instructor and new equipment, are scarce and can cost up to 40 per cent more at 10,000 baht (£160). Scuba can be dangerous, so it is well worth investing in the best course you can afford. The Coral Grand Resort has excellent courses starting from 1,600 baht (£25) and pleasure dives from 700 baht (£11.50). All courses include transport, equipment, lunch and soft drinks. On dry land, there's some good walking, meditation retreats and, of course, the beach. Mopeds hire costs 150 baht (£2.30) per day.

Koh Lanta Yai

Since the airport at nearby Krabi opened, Koh Lanta, one of Thailand's best kept secrets, is rapidly gaining popularity. But this laid-back island is still reasonably underdeveloped, making it a charming place to drift off into soporific holiday bliss. One of a collection of pretty isles in the southern Andaman Sea, Koh Lanta is filled with dozens of downmarket bungalows aimed at backpackers. However, newer upmarket resorts are now being built. Chao Lay ­ nomadic sea gypsies ­ still make up a large percentage of the population and you'll find some of their villages on the south-eastern tip of the island. The interior is a national park ­ entry 200 baht (£3) ­ with virgin rain forest. If you come during high season (November to March), the sandy beaches that stretch the entire length of Koh Lanta's western coast can get busy. At other times of year the island is largely deserted as the seas swell with monsoon weather.

How to get there: There are regular overnight departures to Krabi departing early evening from Bangkok's southern bus station. The journey takes 12 hours, and tickets cost from £8. Thai International (0870 606 0911; www.thaiair.com) flies direct from Bangkok to Krabi for 5,200 baht (£80). From Krabi bus station, jump on a Koh Lanta-bound mini-bus ­ the pier head is then a 60-minute drive. On the island, various mini-buses, taxis and so on will take you to the beach/resort. Transfers can be arranged with Pimalai if you choose to stay there.

Where to stay: The new Pimalai resort (00 66 2 320 5500; www.pimalai.com) aspires to five-star pleasure, but falls a little short. Still, it is the best accommodation on the island and its attached spa is now fully functioning. Standard rooms are well designed and the beach-side suites are to die for ­ the beach here is an enormous swathe of shimmering sands. Pimalai claims to be environmentally friendly, though it does encroach on the public beach which would seem to upset those aspirations. It also has two restaurants serving up a barbecue menu and spicy southern Thai food. Rooms from 6,000 baht (£95).

What to do: Laze on the gorgeous beaches and swim in the cooling Andaman Sea, head into the rainforest and the beautiful waterfalls an hour's walk up a path, opposite the Mai Pai beach just south of Pimalai. Hire a moped and explore the island, visiting the cave complex at Mai Kaeo or the orchid farm at the northern end.

Koh Bon and the Evason Resort and Spa, Phuket

If you decide to stay at the luxurious Evason on the crowded island of Phuket you will be guaranteed access to the resort's own tropical island a 10-minute boat ride away at Koh Bon. Only 2km in length, Koh Bon is tiny, but with its shallow waters and sublime beaches it makes for a perfect island getaway. Free transfers are provided every half hour between the resort and Koh Bon.

Where to stay: The Evason (00 66 76 381 010; www.six-senses.com/evason-phuket/index.html) has a variety of room styles and is building a luxury honeymoon suite on Koh Bon itself. Prices from 6,000 baht (£95) with reductions online.

How to get there: Phuket is best reached by air from Bangkok. Thai International (0870 606 0911; www. thaiair.com) flies several times a day with fares from 5,200 baht (£80). A taxi from Phuket airport to the Evason should cost about 800 baht (£12.50).

What to do: Swim, eat, indulge. Or pick one of the huge variety of activities the Evason offers, including snorkelling, scuba-diving, windsurfing and sailing. There's even a children's club.

Andrew Spooner flew to Thailand with Emirates (020-7932 9911; www.emirates.com/uk), which flies daily from Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester and Birmingham to Bangkok, via Dubai, from £499 return. Prices from Scotland start from £560, including connecting flights. Packages start from £679, including return flights, taxes, five nights' accommodation at a four-star hotel in Bangkok and transfers. For more information about the country, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (0839 300800; www.thaismile.co.uk).