Hotel Of The Week: Three Camel Lodge, Mongolia

Three Camel Lodge in Mongolia offers luxury living in one of the world's most inhospitable regions. And you needn't feel guilty, this tourist ger is run on wind and solar power

This is top hospitality in one of the world's most inhospitable regions, the Gobi. The desert stretches for miles around, sometimes flat and gritty, sometimes stark mountains, sometimes sand dunes, and sometimes, after rare rain, a rich carpet of green. And in the middle of all this lies Mongolia's most luxurious and eco-efficient tourist ger. Across the country Mongolians have successfully adapted for tourism the nomads' traditional felt tent made from sheep's wool, still used by the country's 500,000 nomadic herders. But Three Camel Lodge is unique because, although guests sleep in gers, the owners have added sophistication and modern attentive service to the traditional style. Since its opening in 2003 it has run almost solely on wind and solar power. In addition, the lodge funds and organises nature conservation clubs for local children, who in turn protect mountain springs and plant native trees.

The location

Set behind the 47-million-year old volcanic outcrop of Mt Bulagtai, where you can search out ancient petroglyphs, the camp is in the Gurvansaikhan National Park. Some 90 minutes' drive from Dalanzadgad, it has its own life-saving well and vegetable garden. The main lodge, which can be used as a lecture hall, is built of wood in the Buddhist style without the use of a single nail. Traditional Mongolian dancers, musicians, and contortionists hold regular performances. Relax with a book by the big fireplace, or sit in a swing seat on the terrace looking out over the desert.

The comfort factor

The wood-frame beds are wide and seem soothingly plush after a gruelling camel ride. The woodwork is painted orange (symbolic of warmth), while your personal attendant will light the wood-burning stove if a cold night is expected: the smoke, in traditional style, escapes up a pipe through the circular roof. Pictures of Mongolia's 12 favourite animals - bear, rabbit, horse and so on - adorn the roof ring.

The bathroom

Deluxe gers have a cute extension with lavatory and basin. But for a hot shower - sometimes lukewarm if the solar heating system is under pressure - everyone must use the communal washing unit in the basement of the main complex.

The food and drink

Meals are taken in a large, 12-sided ger, similar to those used by the great Khan rulers centuries ago. Healthy salads and vegetables are combined with Mongolian standards such as mutton and beef. Breakfast is buffet-style. The two bars stock most alcoholic drinks.

The people

Palaeontologists, archaeologists, photographers, bird-watchers and the more intrepid traveller type, the majority American although the European market is increasing. A growing number of rich Mongolian families take weekend breaks there.

The area

Despite all this luxury in a parched land and the temptation to stay put, everyone gets out and about. Far from being a dried-up, empty place, the desert teems with life. At the Flaming Cliffs you can see where the adventurer Roy Chapman Andrews - the model for Indiana Jones - discovered a dinosaur embryo in 1921. Even we were lucky to find the remains of a dinosaur nest and eggs. And a four-hour drive west will take you to the 300m-high and 100km-long singing dunes of Khongoryn Els. Here guests can ride camels over damp meadows with the towering sands on one side and a fast-flowing river on the other, and then either camp out under the stars or sleep in the ger of a camel-herding family. Gazelles, horses, goats, sheep, camels and yaks graze on, well, almost nothing and, if you're lucky, you'll see hares, long-eared hedgehogs, ibex, foxes, griffons, wolves and vultures.

The access

Stairs to different levels of the complex make this a tricky place for disabled travellers. There are no lifts.

The damage

Three Camel Lodge, Mt Bulagtai, Bulgan County, Umno-Gobi Province, Mongolia (00 976 11 325786; threecamellodge.com).

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