Sleepover: Telang Usan Hotel

A bed for the night in Malaysian Borneo

Where is it?

In Kuching, the capital of Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo.

What's it like?

The world's first hotel owned and managed by the Orang Ulu, a group of indigenous tribes mainly found in the interior of Sarawak. Three-star, 10 minutes from the town centre and surrounded by lush tropical woodland. The rather functional concrete exterior gives no hint of the inside, which is a showcase for authentic Sarawakian art. The ground floor has a wide range of artefacts, face masks and gorgeous wall hangings.

What's its USP?

The local touch of the Dayak tribe which runs the place and the sense that this is anything but a run-of-the-mill hotel. Refreshing enthusiasm among staff, bordering on a desperation that you leave with a good impression of their culture.

Service?

Extremely friendly and helpful. A passing mention of a bad experience with Kuching's surly taxi drivers led to a re-enactment of the dirty knife restaurant sketch from Monty Python, with staff queuing up to apologise on the verge of tears.

Rooms?

Simple, neat and tidy with bath and shower. The soaps are something to snaffle for their lovely patterned wrapping. The views are disappointing but all 66 rooms have air con, essential in Kuching. Extremely good value at £20 for a double, including taxes.

Food?

The hotel offers local Dayak tribe specialities, such as salads with sticky black bean sauce. The hotel's Dulit Coffee House is a lovely enclosed verandah where you can sip Earl Grey tea and eat cakes. The chef will knock up a speciality ethnic dinner buffet if you give enough notice, and they offer Western cuisine as well. There is also a Chinese restaurant with an emphasis on Szechuan dishes. Breakfast is no great shakes, but otherwise it's beef sausages and noodles.

Clientele?

British travellers, young and old, are fond of this place, as well as the odd Malaysian businessmen. The Kuching branch of the Hash House Harriettes, the female-led expat social circle, meets regularly in the coffee house.

Things to do?

Kuching is a surprisingly modern and well-to-do city. Take an evening walk along the waterfront and look out for the kitsch giant cat statues dotted around town. (Kuching means "cat city" in Malay.) Visit the Sarawak museum with its fascinating tribal artefacts. The hotel also runs cultural visits to tribal longhouses up river.

Address?

Telang Usan Hotel, Ban Hock Road, Kuching, Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia (00 60 82 415588; www.telangusan.com).