How to spend a day in Collingwood, Melbourne’s coolest neighbourhood

With independent shops, charismatic brunch spots and some of the best coffee in town, this should be your base on a Melbourne city break, says Ed Maughan

Smith Street is in the heart of Collingwood, Melbourne (Josie Withers/Visit Victoria)

Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary that aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.

Escape the skyscrapers of Melbourne’s central business district, and less than a mile northeast you’ll find Collingwood. Sharing a border with tourist favourite Fitzroy, it’s just as foodie and artsy – but still pleasantly rough around the edges.

Collingwood’s young, creative community is embracing the warehouses left behind by the suburb’s manufacturing past, creating amazing spaces to wine, dine and browse. Smith Street – the eclectic high street that Time Out voted “Coolest Street in the World 2021” – is well worth a stroll. There’s a great selection of bakeries, record stores, coffee shops and boutiques.

Venture into the side streets and you’ll find what makes Collingwood really special. Microbreweries, coffee roasters and restaurants are all hidden away behind rolltop doors. Throw in some fascinating architecture and street art, and you’ve got yourself a home base you’ll be dying to get back to.

Abbotsford Convent is now an arts venue (Getty)

Do

Soak up the street art

Melbourne is famous for its street art. Collingwood is home to a Keith Haring mural dating back to 1984, and an epic tower-block sized mural by Adnate on Wellington St. You can’t miss these vivid creations, but book a street art guide for the full experience.

Visit Abbotsford Convent

Set in 16 acres of land next to the Yarra River, Abbotsford Convent has been reborn as Australia’s biggest multi-arts precinct. Galleries, cafes and unexpected inner-city green spaces (including a city farm!) sit alongside a mish-mash of artists’ studios and workshops that line the echoey corridors and leafy courtyards of the old convent.

The Collingwood Beer Trail

Despite being just 1.3sq km, Collingwood packs in much of the essence of Melbourne’s craft beer scene. Stomping Ground beer hall is joined by many smaller warehouse spots that spill out onto the streets. Take on The Collingwood Beer Trail to check out The Mill Brewery, Molly Rose Brewing Co and IPA specialists Fixation Brewing Co.

Source some brunch in this laidback warehouse (South of Johnston)

Eat

South of Johnston

South of Johnston is our pick for the all-important Aussie brunch. Tucked away on a quiet street, it’s a laidback warehouse spot mixing brunch classics with cocktails and local wine. Try the corn and zucchini fritters.

CIBI + The Plant Society

Part urban jungle (The Plant Society), part immaculate Japanese interiors store/cafe (CIBI), the step from residential Keele St into this vast, shared warehouse space is an experience in itself. Meg and Zenta Tanaka’s menu at CIBI is their take on hand-me-down Japanese recipes – try “Mum’s Scrambled Eggs”.

Rupert on Rupert

Perfect for your holiday "date night" – even if it’s just with yourself – Rupert on Rupert is another backstreet joint (and opposite the Aussie roastery of the excellent Allpress Coffee). Check out the Mediterranean-influenced small plates made with fresh local produce (taster menu available), classic cocktails and a wine list featuring some very decent pinot noir, a Victorian winery speciality.

Easey’s

Ever eaten burgers in a train carriage perched on a rooftop? Easey’s offers epic Melbourne skyline views with some of the best burgers in town. Grab cocktails just across the street at the trendy Paradise Alley when you’re done.

There are plenty of breweries on The Collingwood Beer Trail (The Mill Brewery)

Drink

Aunty Peg’s

Melbournians LOVE coffee, so go get your fix at Aunty Peg’s, which touts itself as a coffee cellar door. Grab a seat at the brew bar for a one-on-one experience with a barista who’ll talk you through the perfect brew. Plus, you can snag a souvenir bag of beans to tackle the jetlag after your 24-hour flight home.

Hope St Radio

Hope St Radio is a proper community spot, just opened in Collingwood Yards – a newly renovated ex-technical college. Enjoy an early evening vino from the tightly curated wine list in the lovely, leafy courtyard beer garden. The DJs broadcast live to punters and on the venue’s namesake radio station.

The Grace Darling Hotel

Have a pint and watch the trams roll past on Smith Street. The Grace Darling is a classic Melbourne street-corner “hotel” (Australia’s answer to the pub) – think great beers and local wines. Check their Instagram for the best times to catch some live music in the band room.

Above Board

This is one you wouldn’t find just by chance. Don’t be put off by its back alley entrance or lack of web presence – Above Board is a super sleek cocktail bar with seats for just 16 guests along the bar. The tight curation continues with the cocktails; the classics are available, with a rotating (often experimental and always boozy) list of just 25 to choose from.

Shops along Gertrude Street ( Visit Victoria (visitmelbourne.com))

Shop

Stroll along Gertrude Street

Gertrude Street runs between Smith St and Brunswick St, the parallel high streets of Collingwood and Fitzroy respectively. Check out some independent boutiques, including Edgeley and HAVN, or pop into Aesop (yes, that Aesop), whose global HQ is just around the corner.

The Hub General Store

The Hub General Store is one to get lost in. Its products are a fab showcase of some of Australia’s finest makers, creators and craftspeople. Stationery, books, homewares, clothing – and a space that will leave you feeling very zen.

Blackhearts and Sparrows

Get hold of some of Australia’s best wines and spirits at independent bottle shop Blackhearts & Sparrows. Knowledgeable staff will guide you through the best sips to sample from right across the country.

The neighbourhood’s hip Lyf hotel (Ascott Limited)

Stay 

Napier Quarter Guesthouse

Treat yourself to a few nights of minimalist and understated private luxury by booking the lone room at this wine-bar-meets-guesthouse. With views over the tree-lined streets, you can order freshly pressed coffee or local wine to your room from your hosts below.

Doubles from £250, room only; napierquarter.com.au/guesthouse

Lyf Collingwood

Newly opened Lyf Collingwood makes a great base for a city break. Modern, colourful and fairly compact, the affordable rooms have all the mod-cons. Plus, the location is ideal, away from the bustle of Smith St, and next door to South of Johnston when you’re ready for that brunch!

Doubles from £95, room only; discoverasr.com/en/lyf/australia/lyf-collingwood-melbourne

Book now