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Charleston, South Carolina’s restaurants and bars ooze Southern charm

South Carolina’s pastel coloured city is packed with colourful, characterful foodie spots. Amira Hashish embarks on a culinary tour... 

Amira Hashish
Thursday 03 May 2018 14:55 BST
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Fried food and good company: Leon’s Oyster Shop
Fried food and good company: Leon’s Oyster Shop (All photos ExploreCharleston)

Charleston is a feast for the senses. The pastel coloured properties that line the streets are worthy of a movie set, there is music in the air and smells of barbecues and bourbon linger from the al fresco terraces.

This small but beautifully formed Lowcountry jewel is regularly voted America’s top city and as we stroll along King Street and soak up the sights and sounds it all makes sense.

The food and drink scene here is giving the likes of New York and LA a run for their money. In fact, many of the 4 million visitors a year flock to Charleston for a culinary adventure. Grits, oysters and fried chicken are staples on many of the menus; each dish reflecting the multicultural heritage that punctuates South Carolina.

From street food to fine dining, there is a common thread of passion for ingredients and the history they represent.

Charleston Street: follow the smell for a slice of the city’s culinary heritage

Our first stop is FIG (that’s Food is Good) and we know we are in for a treat when the Belmond Hotel concierge is astounded that we managed to get a reservation. “How far in advance did you book?,” he gawps. Refreshingly, this is not the result of new opening fanfare. Despite doing its thing for 15 years, FIG is still full most evenings.

Seasonal ingredients and local, sustainable products are prepared by James Beard Foundation award-winning chef Mike Lata. Try the spaghetti and clams or ricotta gnocchi to start. Then move onto the the baked snowy grouper with spring shallot, asparagus, vin blanc and champagne sabayon. Be sure to leave space for the butterscotch pot de creme.

FIG: a local institution which makes use of seasonal, sustainable produce (ExploreCharleston.com)

Another local hero is Sean Brock, whose Husk restaurants are making waves across various states. His latest restaurant, McCrady’s Tavern, combines modern cooking with the spirit of the Gilded Age to create unique dishes such as broiled flounder vin black, and New York strip steak served with blue cheese and watercress. It is a lively haunt with a statement bar for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail.

For a romantic night out, head to Zero Restaurant + Bar. This intimate space has a wonderful tasting menu and the service strikes the right balance of friendly and knowledgeable. In the ultra-chic George Hotel, it is the epitome of elegance.

We’re talking of the devilled eggs at Zero Restaurant + Bar (ExploreCharleston.com)

Chef Vinson Petrillo creates sumptuous dishes with European twists. The scallop tartare is a real highlight. Our lovely waitress was hesitant about serving Brits the beef wellington but we can confirm that it more than lives up to expectations. The desert is also a divine mix of mousse, meringue and ice cream. For a special experience, the menu can be paired with boutique wines, many of which have quirky backstories.

Lunch options are plentiful too. Buzzy eatery Butcher & Bee is a little walk away from the downtown area but boy it’s worth it. The farm-to-table concept incorporates a rotating menu of inventive cuisine with local produce, such as kale slaw, spicy carrots and whipped feta. Israeli born owner Michael Shemtov puts his twist on Southern classics and the result is super-satisfying. Dip the house-made pita in hummus, indulge in the crispy stuffed olives and nibble on the falafel. As an entrée, the veggie burger is excellent. The pièce de résistance is the ice cream drumstick. That’s waffle ice cream covered in caramelised white chocolate and waffle bits. A sweet triumph.

There’s plenty of space outside at Leon’s for sunny days

Make a beeline for the buzzing Leon’s Oyster Shop for a delectable selection of deep fried food. Housed in a refurbished garage, this is a cool place to hangout. As well as the bright, rustic interiors there is plenty of outside space for sunny days. The fried oysters rockefeller with spinach and herbs or the fried oyster sandwich with avocado both come highly recommended and don’t disappoint. Leave room for the soft serve with sprinkles.

As well as the obvious you’ll find delicious fried fish and chicken at Leon’s Oyster Shop (ExploreCharleston.com)

For Sunday brunch, it’s High Cotton. Munch your way through indulgent local favourites as live jazz music plays in the background. From buttermilk fried oysters to Carolina shrimp and grits or fried chicken biscuit, the classics reign here. Jen’s Pastries, made on site everyday, are also a must.

Of course, it is not just about the food. There are so many great cocktail options. Be sure to pop into 492 on Upper King street. It is a lively spot in a completely renovated building that was abandoned following Hurricane Hugo, the category five storm that devastated parts of Charleston in 1989. The owners breathed new life into the space. On Thursday nights there is live music in the atmospheric courtyard. Signature drinks include the Disco Sour (watch as the ice turns purple), Oaxacan On Sunshine and Summer Breeze.

For a cosy vibe it’s Little Jack’s Tavern. Co-owners Tim Mink and Brooks Reitz (the guys behind Leon’s) have transformed a former Saint Alban into a well-designed tavern with cocktails. Packed with horse racing trinkets and boxing memorabilia it is reminiscent of an oldschool American sports bar. There is fabulous service to boot. Order a Manhattan or Martini and listen out for the expertly curated soundtrack. This place is also about the ambience. In fact, there is even an expert on site who is the master of lighting and sound. Pitch a seat at the bar as the night draws in.

Little Jack’s Tavern, another great offering from the owners of Leon’s (ExploreCharleston.com)

The downtown skyline has hardly any tall buildings due to the city’s height restriction ordinance. So hotel rooftops are popular hangouts to admire the church steeples and Arthur Ravenel cable-stay bridge over the Cooper river. Head to The Watch at The Restoration Hotel for one of the best 360-degree views in town. The handcrafted cocktails, craft beers, and local wines are served with a smile.

Be warned. You will be utterly charmed by Charleston. What’s not to love about a city that prides itself on fabulous food and good old-fashioned Southern hospitality?

For more information visit explorecharleston.com and visittheusa.co.uk

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