24 Hours In: Szczecin

Soak up the rich sense of history in the Pomeranian palaces and Gothic museums of this former German town with a troubled and violent past

Breakfast with a view

7.00: breakfast at the Radisson SAS, Rodla Square, and enjoy its fine views of the cathedral.

A glimpse of the old dukes

8.30: Walk down Wyzwolenia Avenue and then down Trasa Zamkowa towards the river and enter the Castle of the Pomeranian Dukes, 34 Korsarzy St, a fine renaissance palace.

Take the Red Route

9.30: Pick up the Red Route (painted on the pavement) and head downhill towards the old town square. The vertiginous Loitz House, Kurkowa Street, is all that remains of a cluster of wealthy merchants' houses.

Get a taste of civic history

10.00: Visit the Old City Hall, now the Museum of City History, 8 Msciwoja Street. This fine example of civic Gothic brickwork has been restored with EU funds.

Restore yourself with a coffee

11.00: The cafés along Siena Street open up now. Before choosing one, look at the pink and blue façades of the newly restored buildings.

Reflect for a moment

12.00: Walk up Grodska Street to the Archdiocese Cathedral Basilica, started in 1187 and rebuilt many times. The interior contains chapels commemorating victims of the Solidarity protests, deportations to Siberia under the Russians and deaths under the Germans among others.

Step back into old Prussia

13.00: Cross into Plac Orla Bialego (White Eagle Square). The stone eagle topping the Baroque fountain represents the black eagle of Prussia.

Have lunch Viennese style

13.30: Head to Niepodlegloaci Avenue for lunch. Bajka, at No 30 (00 48 91 812 19 95) is decorated in the Viennese style and was once owned by the boxer Max Schmelling.

The gateway to fine art

15.00: Take in the Port Gate and the artwork at Galeria Trystero.

In the footsteps of a pope

16.00: Take a taxi out to the New City Hall, Zwyciestwa Square. Walk through Jasne Blonia, the park behind the centre, where a statue commemorates Pope John Paul II's visit

Time for a fish supper

20.00: Dine at Chief, 16 Rayskiego Street (00 48 91 434 3765). It serves good fish and the service is better than many Szczecin restaurants. Locals claim all the good waiters are in Britain. The restaurant looks out on Grunwaldzki Square where chess players gather.

Do the Can Can as the sun sets

22.00: Take a taxi to the Rocker-Club, Partyzantow Street. If that closes before 4am, go on to the Can Can Club or City Hall.