How to spend a day in Refshaleoen, Copenhagen’s trendy, sustainable neighbourhood

Surrounded by water, this bike-friendly former industrial zone has fun floating cabins, a sociable food market and even an urban ski slope, says Justine Gosling

This waterfront neighbourhood sings in summer (Justine Gosling)

Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.

Refshaleoen, a former industrial area and shipyard in the Danish capital, has been transformed into a happening indie hub of creativity. Now home to a raft of festivals, trailblazing bars and restaurants, markets and artist’s studios, its scene is spread across cavernous warehouses, all mismatched bricks and rusting metal.

Expect random graffiti, gorgeous boathouses and incongruous micro-vegetable-patches, as well as bicycles parked in every nook. All the best parties happen here ‒ in 2014, Refshaleoen hosted Eurovision, while each summer the neighbourhood hosts some of Denmark’s biggest music festivals.

The best way to get here is by bicycle ‒ it’s how the city travels. The gentle 15-minute ride from the city centre, all on designated cycle paths, takes you over the capital’s iconic Inderhavnsbroen bike bridge, with views of the city’s sweeping harbour. Alternatively, the area’s electric boat taxis are frequent, and you can haul your bike on to them, too.

The CC2 arts venue (CC2)

Do

Take in the capital

For citywide views with an ice cream, head to the top of Copenhill, a dry ski slope and recreational hill built on top of a recycling and energy-generating centre in 2020. It’s part of Copenhagen’s ambition to be carbon neutral by 2025. Tackle the 450m climb to the top first thing, then descend on foot or rental skis (there’s also a lift for the faint-hearted).

Out-there art fix

Occupying a magnificent former ship-welding hall, the city centre’s Copenhagen Contemporary (CC) hosts installations, performance art and monumental video works. Avant-garde exhibitions are inspired by subjects as diverse and intriguing as science (CERN), sociology (children’s play patterns around the globe) and performance (synchronised swimming).

Take a challenge

Challenge yourself on a serial assault course, similar to Go Ape, with the backdrop of the district’s old shipyard warehouse. Copenhagen’s Urban Ranger Camp is the world’s highest course of its kind: adrenaline junkies will love scaling its ladders, wobbly step bridges and testing their balance on tightropes 50 metres off the ground.

Enjoy the water

Whatever the temperature, bring your bathers for a canal swim. Copenhagen has a very relaxed and liberal vibe, and you’ll see people jumping in the water all over the city. Or stay dry and stick to the surface: kayaks and stand up paddleboards can be rented, while self-drive electric leisure boats can be hired in nearby Christianshavn for canal-cruising picnics.

A dish at Restaurant 56° (Mikkel Bækgaard)

Eat

Alchemist

“Expect the unexpected”: that’s the mantra of two-Michelin-starred restaurant Alchemist, dreamt up by culinary wunderkind Rasmus Munk. Behind its massive bronze doors is an experience lasting 4-6 hours, where guests move from room to room, sampling 50 bite-sized “impressions” that might include a live violinist serenading you, or trippy images playing out across the ceiling above you.

Reffen

At organic outdoor market Reffen, you’ll find more than 50 harbourside food and drink stands. Top dishes include a perfectly grilled Pepito steak sandwich at Fuego Argentinian, or delicious steamed dumplings at Everest Nepalese. There’s almost too much choice, but you can listen to live music and watch skaters perform tricks at the skate park while you narrow down your options.

Restaurant 56°

Restaurant 56° serves Nordic gourmet from an a la carte menu at very reasonable prices. Join its long communal tables for Sunday lunch to mingle with locals, tucking into dishes such as wild duck and potato puree with cherries and beets or a trio of Danish Oysters.

Oens Have

An urban farm, community space and organic restaurant, Oens Have is a little green oasis that’s open Thursday-Sunday. Dine in a large yurt in the middle of the owners’ beautiful farmland and enjoy deliciously creative dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, such as cod fins barbecued in a tomato tapenade, or seafood ceviche.

The yurts and vegetable patch at Oens Have (Giuseppe Liverino)

Drink

The Green Garden

This vibrantly decorated bar specialises in organic, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies in fragrant surroundings thanks to the piles of peel and zest waiting to be taken to the composter. Try the “yellow one” with apple, pineapple, lemon and ginger – and perhaps a sneaky shot of rum to liven it up.

Lille Bakery

Originally funded by kickstarter, Lille is a small organic bakery and coffee shop with indoor and outdoor space that aims to bring people together. The baked goods and coffee are well worth the long queue that snakes from it at weekends.

La Banchina

A 14-seat natural wine bar, La Banchina is tucked into the shipyard’s former security guard’s office, and comes with its own woodfired sauna and roped off swimming area in the canal. Here you can sweat, swim and sip in a cosy corner of the harbour, year-round. Book in advance for a sauna slot.

The Kaj ‘floating cabin' (Daniel Rasmussen)

Shop

BLÆS glass studio

Between bites at Reffen market, check out BLÆS, which produces and sells handcrafted glass art in a small studio among its food stalls. The team here also offers beginners’ glassblowing workshops for those who want to create their own works of art.

Empirical distillery

On the hunt for souvenirs? Grab a bottle of whisky or gin from the award-winning Empirical Distillery, which makes curious spirits in bottles as minimalist and chic as a cult perfume house’s. The must-try is “Excess and Debauchery”, aged for four months in ex-Bourbon casks with smoked Jerusalem artichoke leaves; at weekends, you can taste them all on guided tours.

B&W flea market

B&W is Denmark’s coolest flea market, where you can snap up bargain retro posters, leather goods, vintage jewellery and local handmade ceramics. It specialises in mid-century and retro Danish furniture, so be sure you’re ready to cover shipping costs! Open Saturday and Sunday every other weekend, between 10 and 4pm.

The Copenhill ‘ski slope’ sits on top of a waste-to-energy plant (Getty Images)

Stay

Kaj

Kaj is a single-room floating cabin surrounded by water and packed with Danish “hygge” (a Danish concept that encompasses the feeling of quiet comfort). Crafted entirely of reclaimed materials, it’s tucked into a quiet corner of the neighbourhood, with views across the striking harbour. The best bit is sipping your morning brew while dangling your feet in the clear water, but kayaking or paddleboarding off your own small jetty is a contender, too. Sleeps two from £250 a night, B&B.

Babette Guldsmeden

Just on the other side of the harbour, Babette Guldsmeden is a short water taxi ride away from the action in Refshaleoen. Rooms are bright and bohemian: think big, leafy ferns, bright patterned rugs and simple pine furniture. After a busy day, grab a cocktail and chill as you take in Copenhagen’s skyline from the outdoor rooftop spa. Doubles from £150, B&B.