How to spend a day in Piraeus, Athens’ rejuvenated seaside neighbourhood

This formerly-run down port is where you’d go to catch a ferry on to the islands – now it’s becoming a characterful, authentic place to shop, eat and see art, says Heidi Fuller-Love

Mikrolimano harbour and yacht marina (Getty/iStock)

Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement, encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city. Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction, these compact, close-up guides encourage you to zone in, take your time and truly explore like a local.

Although you’ve probably been through Athens’ bustling waterfront on your way to catch a jam-packed ferry to one of Greece’s islands, it would come as no surprise to find that you didn’t choose to linger in Europe’s largest port.

Over the past few years, however, Piraeus’ once tatty and trashy backstreets have had a much-needed makeover, with art galleries, bougie hotels, hip tavernas and designer boutiques popping up all over. There’s even a gleaming new tram that whisks you here from the city centre in 15 minutes.

As the grime has been washed away, travellers have started to discover what Athenians have know for decades: this brine-bathed, under-the-radar seaside suburb is one of the city’s best kept secrets.

From spectacular hilltop hangouts and hip seafood joints to cool bars overlooked by ancient ruins and quirky museums, here’s why you should consider missing that ferry the next time round – in favour of 24 hours in vibrant Piraeus.

Do

Get into the arty vibe

It’s always a good sign when a bunch of hip galleries move into a neighbourhood, and Piraeus is no exception. Housed in a warren of warehouse buildings along cobble-lined Polidefkou Street – once part of an Egyptian bazaar – you’ll find a string of world class galleries. Don’t miss Rodeo (it’s the sister of Istanbul’s).

Climb to the Kastella

It’s a tough hike, but this hilltop neighbourhood has paved streets as steep as San Francisco’s, fringed with pastel-coloured Neoclassical mansions – so bring your camera. It’s also the best place anywhere in the city to sip ouzo in a traditional kafeneion (Greece’s low-key, local-vibes bar-cafes) as you watch ferries bumbling over the blue sheet of the Saronic Gulf, spread out far below.

Catch a film under the glistening stars at Cine Votsalakia (Cine Votsalakia)

Browse the quirky railway museum

You don’t need to be a trainspotter to enjoy Piraeus’ Electric Railways Museum. Piraeus’s lofty ceilinged Art Deco railway terminal is the perfect backdrop for this fascinating collection (from meticulously restored railway carriages to antique ticket machines), which is the lifetime’s hoard of a former Piraeus railway employee.

Catch a movie

For a big slice of local culture grab a pork-and-onion-stuffed gyros pitta from one of the street food stands along Votsalaki Beach – then join locals as they flick popcorn and boo at the latest rom-com beneath a sky full of stars, at open-air cinema Cine Votsalakia.

Lunch at elegant Varoulko Seaside is a treat (Varoulko Seaside)

Eat

The seafood star

In a high-ceilinged, marine-themed mansion looking out over lively Mikrolimano harbour, celebrity chef Lefteris Lazarous’ Michelin-starred Varoulko Seaside is the best place in Athens for briny-fresh seafood. Don’t miss the crab brioche drizzled with basil, lemon and avocado cream.

The cosy venue

Hearty, homey tavernas where you can sip aniseed-laced ouzo and dig into meze sharing plates are two-a-penny in Piraeus. But family-run Kafeneio Riris (127 Klisovis St) gets my “all-time best” vote – order the grilled octopus with silky yellow split pea puree (fava) and you’ll see why.

The historic haven

With its wooden tables and caned chairs, Stoa Rakadiko might look like an old schoolhouse, but the food at this cafe – which dates back to 1897 – is far superior to school canteen fare. Highlights include handmade skioufikta pasta drizzled with nutty local gruyere cheese, and black pork kebab served in a pitta with caramelised onions.

A Koula Savvidou exhibition at Rodeo gallery (Rodeo)

Drink

Red lights and Greek pop

Once the city’s red light district, the edgy Troumba area now teems with hip nightlife venues, while Zea’s lively marina is your best bet for upmarket aperitifs. For lashings of local vibes, make a beeline for Aisthimaties, a cosy hole-in-the-wall bar where the DJ plays rousing Sixties and Seventies Greek hits.

Fine wine and a boho vibe

When the sun goes down over Piraeus’ port and the ferries glitter like fireflies, follow the city’s hipsters to quaff sommelier Giannis Kaimenakis’ cult organic wines at Paleo Wine Store. You find this high-ceilinged, repurposed warehouse along art gallery-lined Polidefkou street.

Glittering chandeliers and great jazz

You’ll want to wear your best rags when you head for Foyer Cafe Bistrot, an elegant cafe inside an ornate 19th-century theatre on Politechniou street. Glitzy chandeliers, polished wood floors and walls lined with black-and-white photos of Greek celebrities are the chic backdrop for regular live jazz evenings that are well worth dressing up for.

Aged whisky and a laid-back vibe

For after-hours sipping in a laidback setting, try The Cask 131 (131 Filonos St) – an old-school Athenian speakeasy which doubles as a bar and shop. There are plenty of craft beers and other goodies on tap, but if you want to do it in style, pull up a stool at the long, shiny counter and order one of their aged whiskies.

Try some cult organic wines at Paleo (Paleo Wine Bar)

Shop

Piraeus Flea Market

A favourite local spot for Sunday morning shopping, Piraeus Flea Market is a second-hand smorgasbord of tacky bric-a-brac, suspiciously shiny antiques and retro clothing. You’ll find it on Alipedou and Omiridou Skilitsi streets each Sunday. Go prepared to barter and you might even get yourself a bargain.

Laouta Shop

The owners of sweet-scented store Laouta use wild herbs, extra-virgin olive oil, beeswax and other natural products to produce a luscious range of (cruelty free) handmade soaps, and organic face and body creams. Most ingredients are sourced from near to their family home, on the tiny Dodecanese island of Karpathos.

Mandragoras

One of the oldest shops in the busy, food-packed Piraeus Municipal Market, grocery store Mandragoras opened back in 1955 and remains loved by local chefs. Like them, you should come here to browse shelves stacked with herbs and spices and tables groaning under the weight of local goodies – don’t miss the owner’s chunky, handmade taramasalata.

The Alex hotel offers rooms with stunning views (Santikos Collection)

Stay

The Alex

Expect rooms with stunning views and contemporary-art-lined walls at design-led boutique haven The Alex, in hilltop Kastella. A succulent range of Med-inspired fusion food is served in its rooftop restaurant and bar – the best place to enjoy those sweeping Saronic Gulf vistas. Doubles from £78, room only. santikoscollection.com/thealex

Carol Hotel

A bright and breezy boutique hotel an easy stroll from Mikrolimano’s laidback cafes and fish tavernas, the Carol Hotel offers excellent bang for your buck. Luckily, that low price point doesn’t equal lack of modern comforts: expect free WiFi, plasma TVs and breakfast served to your room. Doubles from £44, room only. carol.atticatophotels.com