In search of: Swiss chic in Zurich

Put on your best designer gear, this is not the place to be seen in last year's Ralph Lauren

I want a chic weekend in Europe. Where should I go?

My top tip would be Zurich.

You are kidding? Isn't it the most boring place in the world?

Your're just so wrong. Believe me, I thought Zurich would be dullsville until I went there on the advice of my trendy young friend, Cedric, from the Swiss embassy in London. He told me that his home town had reinvented itself as one of the most hip places out. And what's more, he'd arrange for some of his friends to show me around.

Yes, and ...?

From the moment you arrive you know you've struck gold. As you glide through the airport, which wouldn't look out of place between the glossy covers of Wallpaper* (even the escalators are backlit a pretty blue colour) and cruise into town on the S-Bahn, everyone around you will be wearing this year's latest fashions and sunglasses. So remember to wear your best. My last year's Ralph Lauren shades looked well shabby.

What were Cedric's friends like? Chic?

You bet. What he failed to tell me was that they were top models. So I spent the weekend with Mirjana and Giuliana, both over six feet tall, drop-dead gorgeous, draped in Gucci, who towered over me in their Manolos.

Where are the cool new hangouts?

For designer boutiques and café society head for the labyrinth of lanes in the Altstadt (old town) on the East Bank. Seefeld on the Gold Coast (east side of the lake) is crammed with trendy bars and restaurants. Zurich West, the former industrial district, is just so cool it hurts – especially Schiffbau-Hall, a former shipbuilder's yard, housing a fabulous restaurant, several bars and jazz club.

If I want to do indulge in some retail therapy aren't the shops old cheese?

Get out of here. Just get down on you knees and worship at the shrines to chic provided by an A-Z of designers from Armani to Ermenegildo Zegna. Big names are found in the mega stores on Bahnhoffstrasse and the side streets leading down to the river. Look out for: Swatch, Bahnhofstr. 94, for all its latest timepieces; Sonja Riesel Hats, Froschaugasse 13, for her inventive designs; Thema Selection, Muhle Tiefenbrunnen, for Sissy Zobeli's monk-like shifts; Amok, Ankerstr. 61, for Gaultier-style men's wrap-arounds.

What's the food like? Isn't it all fondues?

No, it's divine. You can't beat: Blindcow, Muhlebachstr. 148 (00 41 1 421 50 50), a hip restaurant employing blind waiters and waitresses, serving up dishes such as pan-fried trout with boiled potatoes in a totally dark room. Without sight, your other senses are amazingly heightened. Then there is LaSalle at Schiffbaustr. 4 (00 41 1 258 70 71), a glass cube within a former shipbuilder's yard. Blu, at Seestr. 457 (00 41 1 488 65 65), is a lakeside bar and restaurant in a former laundry.

If I want go out and party, will I find any nightlife?

Are you serious? We are talking nightlife nirvana here. Kick off with cocktails at any of the following: Purpur, Seefeldstr. 9, a groovy bar set in low-slung sofa landscape of African-Moroccan fusion; Drinxbar at Dufourstr. 24 a hip drinking lounge with small dance floor and DJs attracting the party crowd; Kaufleuten, at Pelikanstr. 18, the best-known club and restaurant, attracting the likes of Madonna and Prince; Toni Molkerei at Forrlibuckstr. 109, a massive club in a former dairy – industrial design at its best; Indochine, Limmatstr. 275, the hot club of the moment – sophisticated Asian-lounging with sawn-off rickshaws, Vietnamese tables and massive Buddha statues in a red-gold setting; Labyrinth-Club, Pfingstweidstr. 70, a former warehouse, where all the wide-eyed night owls end up. Expect a high-octane mix of straights, gays and transvestites strutting their stuff to deep house grooves. Don't even think of getting there until at least 3am.

What if I get sick of all this chic and just want to chill?

No worries. All Swiss screens show films in their original language (usually English) so take in movie or go for a swim in the clear waters of Lake Zurich – one of the best beaches is at Tifenbrunnen (20 minutes on tram 4 from centre).

Yes, all right, but isn't a long weekend in Zurich going to cost me an arm and a leg?

No dummy, just think London prices and you will be about right. A main course in a decent restaurant (believe me, there are no bad ones) sets you back between £10-£14, a bottle of wine around £18, cocktails about £7, a vodka and tonic approx £5.

What about getting about?

The public transport system is clean, stylish and scarily efficient and runs from 5.30am to midnight. Central Zurich is compact enough to cover on foot and to go further afield buy a day ticket for Sfr7.20 (£3), from any tram stop, which covers unlimited use of trams, buses and even boats. A taxi back from a night out in Zurich West to the centre sets you back about SFr20 (about £8.50)

Okay, I'm convinced. Where should I stay?

There is only one place to stay – the divine Widder Hotel. Just off the Bahnhoffstrasse, in the centre of the ritzy shopping and banking district, the Widder is secreted away in 10 historic houses dating from the 11th century. Each of the 49 rooms and nine suites is dramatically different, some ultra-modern, some historic with original frescoes and all packed with furniture by big name designers such as Le Corbusier and Ray Eames. Expect five-star comfort, impeccable service and leather bedspreads in every room. Design Hotels (0800 169 8817; www.designhotels.com) offers superior double rooms at the Widder Hotel from £212 per night.

And how do I get there?

Swiss of course, cleverly rebranded and given a makeover by that über-style guru Tyler Brulé. The lovely Swiss flight attendants never stop smiling and video monitors display the plane's progress and even tell you what luggage belt to find your Louis Vuitton on before touchdown. You are taking your Louis Vuitton aren't you? SWISS (0845 601 0956; www.swiss. com) offers return flights from London Heathrow to Zurich from £120 return, including taxes.

Where can I find out more?

Contact Zurich Tourism (00 41 1 215 40 00; www.zuerich.com).