San Pietro, Scunthorpe: Funky with a hint of Sicily

This Victorian mill with a quirky Seventies feel is the perfect base for exploring Lincolnshire, says Liz Dodd

The Illuminata Suite

Scunthorpe is not where you would expect to find the UK's "funkiest bed and breakfast". Of the accolade, which the AA presented to San Pietro as part of its annual B&B Awards earlier this year, owner Michelle Catalano wondered self-effacingly: "Maybe it's because we're in a disused windmill?"

That windmill – a Grade-II listed, 19th-century, four-storey, tarred brick tower mill – is the first you see of San Pietro, and it stands out from its closest neighbours, branches of Asda and Poundstretcher. It looms stark against the plumes of smoke that still rise from the north Lincolnshire town's enormous steelworks, with a humble sign that promises boutique accommodation.

Despite its underwhelming setting, San Pietro is a wonderful base for exploring the coastal towns of north Lincolnshire. You can comb the sandy beach near Grimsby, or stroll along the promenade lined with gardens, then return, knowing that for the best dinner in town you need only descend a flight of stairs. San Pietro restaurant, to which the rooms are attached, has been awarded two AA rosettes, and is the only restaurant in Scunthorpe with an entry in the Michelin Guide.

The bed

Sleeping in one of San Pietro's 14 glorious rooms is like staying the night in a Seventies glam-rock video. The furnishings – all glossy velvets in lime, gold, silver, turquoise and purple – contrast with dark wallpaper, studded with glitter. The rooms come in two categories, Wonderful and Fabulous, while the two types of suite are Spectacular and Illuminata.

Gigantic beds are the centrepieces of each individually designed room, backed by quilted feature walls and piled high with jewel-coloured cushions. All but the Wonderful rooms come with stand-alone baths and in-bathroom TVs; the Illuminata Suite has an emperor-size bed, wireless speakers, a double rain shower and more groovy velvet armchairs than David Bowie's dressing room.

The old mill

The breakfast

A no-frills continental breakfast with a small selection of the usual staples is included in the cost of the room, and served in the refurbished barn. A hearty cooked breakfast – with a focus on local produce including Lincolnshire sausages – costs an extra £8.50, or you can compromise on cost with made-to order staples like eggs benedict and omelettes for £5.

The hosts

San Pietro provides an ideal division of labour for owners Michelle – a Lincolnshire native – and her Sicilian husband, Pietro. The Mediterranean inspired-restaurant – which opened in 2003 – is overseen by Pietro, who trained under Giorgio Locatelli. The rooms, which opened last year, are interior designer Michelle's project.

The weekend

As well as being near the coast, San Pietro is about a 45-minute drive away from Lincoln and the nearby Wolds – a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Don't ignore much-maligned Scunthorpe itself, however. Explore its history as one of the great industrial powerhouses of 19th-century Britain by walking its streets, lined with chocolate-box terraced houses built for steelworkers. Or take a steam train ride around the cavernous Tata steelworks – these free tours, operated by the Appleby-Frodingham Railway Preservation Society, run throughout the summer (01652 657053; afrps.co.uk).

The North Lincolnshire Museum (01724 843533; bit.ly/NorthLincsMus) is great for families and has a Fifties-themed café. Just 10 minutes' drive from San Pietro is beautiful Normanby Hall (01724 720588; normanbyhall.co.uk). Samantha Cameron's childhood home, the Hall sits in 300 acres of lush parkland, and the house and farming museum are open to visitors throughout the summer.

The pit-stop

You won't find anything nearby to beat San Pietro's own restaurant. Highlights of the chef's table menu (£49.50 per head) include rabbit and leek pie and Lincolnshire plum bread with cheeses. At very short notice, the restaurant rustled me up a six-course tasting menu of some of the most creative vegan food I've encountered, including a beetroot and caramelised hazelnut mille-feuille. Be sure to talk through the extensive wine list with the friendly sommelier (and enthusiastic heavy metal fan) Franco.

The essentials

San Pietro, 11 High Street East, Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire, DN15 6UH (01724 277774; sanpietro.uk.com). Rooms start at £99 per night, with suites from £139. The writer travelled from London King's Cross to Doncaster with Virgin Trains East Coast (virgintrainseastcoast.com) and on to Scunthorpe with Great Northern (thameslinkrailway.com). The B&B is a 10-minute walk from the station.