24-hour room service: Arundell Arms, Devon

Where is it?

Where is it?

In a small village called Lifton in Devon, in the valley of the five rivers, off the A30, not far from the Cornish border and in the heart of some very beautiful countryside. Arundell Arms Hotel, Fore Street, Lifton, Devon PL16 OAA (tel: 01566 784666; fax: 01566 784494).

What's it like?

The building itself is an old coaching inn, and nothing obviously special. It is functional and even a bit shabby in places and yet... the Arundell Arms is a very special place indeed.

Ambience

Years of love and laughter emanate from its walls. The ambience changes distinctly from efficiency in the morning to a slower, quieter, more indulgent vibe as dusk falls and the guests come back from walks and fishing, flushed with fresh air and achievement.

Service

The hotel has been owned by Anne Voss-Bark for 40 years. The service is extremely friendly and efficient but neither bothersome nor insincere. Celebrities with egos should book elsewhere.

Rooms

The only thing I'd change, perhaps. Perfectly satisfactory, everything works and is clean, but a touch too functional for my taste. The hotel and its setting are very romantic - the rooms are not. There are 28 rooms which are £56.50 per person in a double, £74 in a single, breakfast included. Special breaks are available, details of which can be obtained from the hotel. There's also an annexe which costs £45 per person, whether double or single occupancy, with breakfast. A self-catering cottage sleeps four and costs from £150 per week out of season.

Food

Superb, some of the best I've ever tasted. All local in-season produce, vegetables from the organic garden: simple food that is not faffed around with but coaxed to a natural deliciousness. You must try the chips and the trifle, both of which are mind-blowing. The chef, Philip Burgess, is so good that the proprietor made him a director of the hotel to stop him being head-hunted. He puts some big London chefs to shame. Very good, well-priced wine list.

Awards

For the fifth year running, it has been awarded three rosettes by the AA. It was also the 1998 Good Food Guide "Devon Restaurant of the Year". And the proprietor Voss-Bark was awarded the MBE for services to tourism and fisheries a couple of years ago.

Clientele

People who love the country and come to fish or walk, or just enjoy Devon. Ted Hughes was a regular visitor from his nearby home.

Things to do

The Arundell Arms is a very famous fishing hotel, so the obvious thing to do is fish for salmon, trout and sea trout on some of the 20 miles of fishing the hotel owns on the Tamar, Lyd, Ottery et al, or from their own trout-stocked pool just up the road from the hotel. Fishing courses - over two or four days - are held throughout the year and are excellent. Two resident bailiffs are on hand to advise, and personal tuition is available. You can also go walking in nearby Dartmoor and look at the ponies, sheep and long-haired cattle. Clay-pigeon shooting can be arranged by the hotel. Pheasant/partridge/snipe shooting takes place in winter. Take a hotel picnic for outdoor pursuits: home-made steak pasties (or veggie) pasties are supplied in wicker baskets.