24-Hour Room Service: Pension Bouayia, Hydra, Greece

On an island renowned for tranquillity, no hotel is more peaceful than the Pension Bouayia. This pretty, 19th-century stone townhouse, with doors and window sills painted in Cycladic blue, was converted 10 years ago by its owners, Barbara and Gregoriou Lazou. It rambles across two terraces, with views across the red roofs of Hydra town.

The Bouayia has just five rooms and the air of a private house. All-purpose helper Alexiou meets guests as they step off the boat, and hauls their luggage up the steep, cobbled streets in a wooden trolley.

Barbara serves breakfast on the shaded terrace, which is lush with plumbago, geraniums and bougainvillaea. As well as plentiful tea and coffee, there are fried eggs, croissants, feta-cheese pastries and honey cake.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

The Pension Bouayia (00 30 22980 52869) stands at the far end of a narrow alley leading up to the mountains on the eastern side of Hydra town. Behind loom the pines and palms growing on the foothills of Mt Eros.

The 10-minute stroll down to the waterfront will take you through twisty streets and squares past sugar-cube churches, tavernas and shops. Several highly regarded tavernas, such as Christina and Manolis, are within easy walking distance.

Time from international airport: a taxi from Athens airport to Piraeus port takes one and a half hours and costs €15-30/ £10-20. From Piraeus to Hydra, Flying Dolphin (00 30 21041 99100; www.dolphins.gr) hydrofoils (four departures daily) take one-and-half hours and cost €32.70/£22 return. Alternatively, board the Saronikos (00 30 210 4124585) ferry departing every Sunday at 8am, which takes three and half hours and costs €13.50/£9 return.

Transport: at the waterfront you can pick up a donkey, shuttle boat or water taxi.

ARE YOU LYING COMFORTABLY?

The rooms are immaculate and comfortable – stone floors, white walls and blue blankets. All have TV and air-conditioning. Bathrooms are modern with plenty of hot water. Room four is a spacious suite; room five has a private terrace.

Freebies: mini-soaps are as good as it gets.

Keeping in touch: all rooms have a telephone.

THE BOTTOM LINE: a double room costs €89/£60.

I'm not paying that: high up in Kamini, the elegant Nefeli (00 30 22980 53297) has spacious doubles from €65/£40.