Sleepover: Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons

A bed for the night in Oxfordshire

Where is it?

On the edge of the village of Great Milton, Oxfordshire, midway between the Chilterns and Oxford.

What's it like?

There has been a manor house on this spot for six centuries or more. The exterior today is mainly Jacobean in style, much extended and restored early last century. Since Raymond Blanc took it over 15 years ago there has been further renovation. The honey-coloured stone and mullioned windows contrast strongly, though not discordantly, with the oriental elements he has introduced (such as a Japanese garden complete with its own teahouse).

What's its USP?

Country-house living the Raymond Blanc way, which means superb food, of course, but also a most un-English flamboyance.

Ambience?

Blanc is determined to keep the atmosphere welcoming and informal, in contrast to many other country-house hotels. He is assisted in this by public rooms which are far from grand in size, but handsomely decorated. Children are welcome.

Service?

Most staff are young, many French, and all efficient. But some might find their relentless eye-contact and keenness a bit over the top.

Rooms?

Since recent conversion of the stables, there are now 13 suites and 19 rooms, all different. Wildly so, you might say. "I create a room like I create a dessert," says Blanc, and you can see what he means if you are staying in Rouge et Noir, entirely red and black, or Bluebell, which feels like being inside a willow-pattern cup. All of the rooms, though, are supremely comfortable. Prices range from £245 to £750. Midweek breaks from £225 per person, based on two sharing, including the Menu Gourmand.

Food?

The Manoir has had two Michelin stars almost from the day it opened. Since Raymond Blanc saw the light from the East a few years ago, he has sought to fuse classic French and oriental cooking. We had the £89, seven-course Menu Gourmand, which, after a slow start apparently caused by an outbreak of perfectionism in the kitchen, was a little like being pummelled helpless with feathers. One tiny, exquisite dish followed another, each bringing an intensity of taste which alone would have made the meal memorable. Almost random examples from the midst of the sensory overload: quail's egg, spinach, Parmesan and black truffle ravioli; pan-fried veal kidneys, red wine jus with green Chartreuse, puree of shallots and snails. Three-course lunches from £45.

Clientele

Once-in-a-lifetime visitors celebrating anniversaries as well as wealthy admirers of the Blanc style.

Things to do

Blanc has a cookery school at the Manoir: courses from £400. The Cotswolds and Oxford are nearby.

Address

Church Road, Great Milton, Oxon OX44 7PD (01844 278881; www.manoir.com).