Somewhere for the Weekend: Antwerp

Diamonds are for ever, but chocolate and Jenever gin are for right now. David Orkin and Vanessa Wilkes find much to savour in this medieval gem of a city

WHY GO NOW?

Antwerp has sparkled for nearly five centuries as the world's diamond capital; seven out of 10 uncut diamonds pass through the city. The gems may be forever, but the wonderful Living Diamonds exhibition at the new Diamond Museum (Koningin Astridplein 19-23, 00 32 3 202 4890, www.diamantmuseum.be, daily 10am-5pm) ends this Sunday. Admission to the exhibition costs €10 (£6.65). A multitude of warm and welcoming cafés, bars and restaurants offer shelter to those exploring the alleys, lanes and squares of Antwerp's medieval Old Town and the surrounding districts.

DOWN PAYMENT

Only VLM Airlines (020-7476 6677, 0161 493 3232, www.vlm-airlines.com) flies direct between the UK and Antwerp, with daily flights from London City and weekday flights from Manchester. Return fares for this weekend start at £82.25 (from London) and £133.30 (Manchester). Antwerp's Deurne Airport (00 32 3 218 1211) is three miles from the city centre. (Be warned; there are no ATM machines in the airport itself and the bank there keeps odd hours.) A taxi to the centre costs €11-15 (£7.30-10) one way, or catch bus 16 to Centraal Station (€1/65p). If there's no salt on the line, take Eurostar (08705 186 186) from London or Ashford to Brussels and catch a local train. Through fares for this weekend cost £125 (the cheapest Eurostar fares need at least 14 days' advance purchase).

INSTANT BRIEFING

Antwerp lies on the right bank of the Scheldt River. The focus of the Old Town (where you'll want to spend most of your time) is the Grote Markt, a large square surrounded by gabled, ornate 16th-century buildings and dominated by a huge fountain. It's the location for Antwerp's tourist office (00 32 3 232 0103, www.antwerp.be). Tourism Flanders has a UK office (020-7867 0311, www.visitflanders.co.uk). Local transport comprises buses and trams operated by De Lijn: bus lines mostly begin at Centraal Station or off the adjacent Koningin Astridplein (currently being dug up), while 10 tram lines cross the city. Single tickets, valid for transfers within one hour, cost €1 (65p). A book of 10 costs €7.50 (£5). A one-day pass bought in advance is €3 (£2) but this cannot be bought on buses or trams. You'll probably find Antwerp's central area is easily manageable on foot, however.

REST ASSURED

For a real treat, try the exclusive De Witte Lelie Keizerstraat 16-18 (00 32 3 226 1966, www.dewittelelie.be): three gabled 16th-century houses combined to make the 10-bedroom White Lily. Though white features strongly, wood, colourful fabrics and artwork enhance the decor; doubles from €240 (£160) including a sumptuous breakfast. The Firean Hotel is an alternative (see Room Service below). Pension Cammerpoorte at Steenhouwersvest 55 (00 32 3 231 2836, cammerpoorte@net4all.be) is cheaper; doubles cost €60 (£40) including breakfast (it closes on 6 January for rebuilding).

MUST SEE

The magnificent Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady (Handschoenmarkt, 00 32 3 213 9940, www.topa.be), with its 400ft spire, is the focal point of the Old Town; the art on display includes four works by Rubens. Building began in the 10th century, but most of what you see dates from 1350 to 1520 (open weekdays 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-3pm, Sun 1pm-4pm, admission €2/£1.30).

Wandering the nondescript blocks of the Diamond District around Centraal Station, it's hard to believe that 25 million carats of diamonds are cut and traded here every year. The Hebrew shop signs and distinctively dressed Hassidic men confirm that this is very much an industry run by Orthodox Jews. As a result, the glittering shops on streets such as Pelikaanstraat are closed on Friday afternoons and Saturdays.

The neo-Baroque Centraal Station is worth a look, though its interior is dusty at present due to the renovations that seem to have been going on for years.

The house in which the artist Peter Paul Rubens lived from 1610 to his death in 1640 is now a fascinating museum, the Rubenshuis (Wapper 9, 00 32 3 201 1555, open 10am-5pm daily except Mon, admission €5/£3.30). Little of the original house remains, but a fine 1946 reconstruction was based on the artist's own designs and looks authentic. Surprisingly the museum is light on the master's paintings; after his death his wife sold hundreds of them.

For a city on one of Europe's mightier rivers, Antwerp's waterfront isn't particularly stunning. It's worth a wander, though, especially to see the city's oldest building, the Steen, which houses the National Maritime Museum.

There are fine views from the unusual steel Pagadder Tower, which was built in the summer as a temporary attraction to celebrate the Chamber of Commerce's bicentennial and is due to be dismantled just before Christmas. The tower is beautifully illuminated after dark, but it opens only on Saturday and Sunday, 2-6pm.

MUST BUY

Market-lovers should visit the Vogelenmarkt on Theaterplein (Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 8.30am-1pm), a riot of flowers, fruit and veg. For something more everlasting, choose a store that displays the logo of ADJA, the Antwerp Diamond Jewellers Association. Belgian chocolates taste as good as they look; try Sweertvaegher (Schuttershofstraat 16, 00 32 3 226 3691, 9.30am-6.30pm daily, Sun 10am-2pm) or La Bonbonniere (Korte Gasthuisstraat 41, 00 32 3 233 1308, Mon-Sat 10am-6pm). The speculaas and macaroons at Philip's Biscuits (Korte Gasthuisstraat 11, 00 32 3 231 2660, Mon-Sat 10am-6pm) are equally divine.

The best place for Belgium's special gin, Jenever, is De Vagant's Off-licence, over the alley from the bar (see below). It opens 11am-6pm daily (not Tuesday and Sunday).

MUST EAT

Het Elfde Gebod means "The Eleventh Commandment". This restaurant at Torfbrug 10 (00 32 3 289 3466) has a wooden interior packed with religious statues and a menu featuring wild boar and hare as well as usual Belgian fare; main courses cost €12-20 (£8-13.30). Chez Fl'eau, on the riverfront at Tavernierkaai 1 (00 32 3 225 3637, www.chezfleau.be), is a brasserie in a converted police station. The food, showing imaginative use of ingredients from South-east Asia, is tasty and beautifully presented; main courses average €17 (£11.30).

Frituurs – chip shops – abound. At Frituur No 1 (Hoogstraat 1), a large portion of fries and a dollop of mayonnaise will set you back €2.80 (£1.85). For something healthier, Lenny's (Wolstraat 47) is a small no-frills café for excellent sandwiches and fresh salads (closed Monday and Tuesday).

INTO THE NIGHT

It is hard to beat the beer selection on offer at Bierhuis Kulminator (Vleminckveld 32-34, 00 32 3 232 4538, open daily except Sunday). Or go to De Vagant (Reyndersstraat 25, 00 32 3 233 1538) to try Jenever, a Belgian gin with a very high alcohol content. More than 200 types are served, including 30 fruit blends; the mandarin and passion fruit slide down nicely at €2 (£1.30) a shot (daily from 11am, Sunday from noon).