Walk of the Week

The ancient rocks of Pembrokeshire tingle with magic. Stonehenge's bluestones were brought from the Preseli Hills, but it is the isolated peak of Carn Ingli which is the most revered of sacred peaks. This overlooks Newport, from where this walk of 8.5 miles starts.

The ancient rocks of Pembrokeshire tingle with magic. Stonehenge's bluestones were brought from the Preseli Hills, but it is the isolated peak of Carn Ingli which is the most revered of sacred peaks. This overlooks Newport, from where this walk of 8.5 miles starts.

The tourist information centre and car park are at grid ref SN057392 on Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure map 35. The bus stop (412 Cardigan-Fishguard-Haverfordwest) is just around the corner. Come prepared for some rough walking, although true pilgrims have been known to go in bare feet - as may be revealed to you, you are stepping on holy ground.

Take East Street, pass the Golden Lion and go left to visit the burial chamber known as Careg Coetan. Continue to a bridge over the Nyfer and turn left to follow the signposted Pembrokeshire Coast Path, keeping the estuary, then the harbour and the sea on your right. After two miles, take a signposted path inland, reach the A487 and divert right to visit the five prehistoric burial chambers called Cerig y Gof (Rocks of the Smith).

One midsummer eve I dowsed a ley or spirit path passing through these ancient stones, coming from Pen Dinas and heading for Carn Ingli. This was roughly the line of the summer solstice sunset. Follow this ley by retracing your steps along the road, then turning right with a path passing Hendre and reaching Ffordd Bedd Morris.

Divert right up this road to turn around and see an excellent example of a landscape figure: the sleeping giant of Carn Ffoi. Return to go right below his feet and bear right through the plateau towards another giant formed by rocks - the goddess of Carn Ingli.

Continue down the leg of the goddess to her knee, then turn right to descend. Turn left along the foot of Carningli Common before taking a track on your right to descend to Newport.

* This walk can be found in 'The Spirit Paths of Wales' by Laurence Main (Cicerone Press, £8.99).