Miami city guide: Where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Florida’s high-living city

Art Deco architecture and days of sunshine make Miami the ultimate US city break destination, says Lucy Thackray

Miami South Beach, Florida (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

It’s known for its beach, high-living resorts and being a second home for celebrities, but there’s so much more to Miami than the bling. The population of this sprawling, multi-cultural city is around 43 per cent Latinx; here, you can get the best Cuban food outside of the island while listening to live salsa and trova music. There’s a world-beating arts district and several well-heeled, leafy shopping neighbourhoods to explore. Year-round sun is a bonus, but don’t let it keep you from ducking indoors for fabulous galleries and museums, live music and authentic food.

The best way to do it is to stay along Miami Beach, a separate island in its own right – “Mid-Beach” is where the most serene, holiday-feel hotels are, while the more famous South Beach stretch becomes more sociable and neon-lit the further you go. From here, dip into the mainland to see the distinctive personality of each different district – all blessed with their own arts venues, head-turning architecture and al fresco restaurant patios for those balmy nights.

Things to do in Miami

Appreciate the architecture

Art Deco buildings in Miami (Getty Images)

Miami’s South Beach – which starts around Ocean Drive – is most famous for its immaculate Art Deco hotels, towering palm trees and Beachwalk pedestrianised path, where you’ll see locals roller-blading, jogging and cycling at all hours. The best way to see it is with a guide who knows its history inside out – our tip is James Cubby at Secret Tours, who brings to life his Art Deco Walk with a deep-rooted knowledge of the city and its many eras and scandals. James came here as a nightlife writer in the city’s 1980s and 90s celeb heyday, and is infectiously passionate about the preserved Art Deco quarter around Ocean Drive and Collins Avenue – take a morning’s stroll with him to get a lighthearted but comprehensive history of the neighbourhood.

Read more on US travel:

• The ultimate US travel guide
• How to explore Wynwood, Miami’s coolest neighbourhood
• The best US beaches to visit in 2023

Salsa and sandwiches in Little Havana

This character-packed neighbourhood is a must-see while in town: stop by for the afternoon to stroll its central boulevard, Calle Ocho, hear live Latin bands play in bars, see Mexican-style papel picado flutter in the breeze, and smell the distinct, wet-earth smell of cigars being rolled. Grab an expertly mixed mojito at any one of the lively bars along the street, or choose between Cuban sandwiches, Mexican tacos, and even “Thai tapas” for dinner. Look out for the Hollywood-style “Walk of Fame” featuring prominent Latinx figures, and stop by the Bay of Pigs memorial with its flickering eternal flame.

Murals and mojitos in Wynwood

The colourful hues of Wynwood Walls (Lucy Thackray)

In this flourishing arts district, practically every wall is daubed with a bright, graphic mural. More than 100,000 cans of spray paint were used in the creation of Wynwood Walls, an outdoor gallery trimmed by 40-foot walls, each containing a complex street-art mural by an international artist. Snap the QR codes on each creation to get the scoop behind the spray. After perusing its air-conditioned indoor gallery, head out via the incredible gift shop and on to the Museum of Graffiti, then one of the area’s trendy bars (Coyo Taco has a speakeasy underneath it).

A dip at the Venetian Pool

A city curiosity in the well-heeled Coral Gables neighbourhood, this public pool is a former quarry where Miamians have been splashing about since 1924. Framed by craggy waterfalls and swim-up grottoes, as well as a Mediterranean Revival-style visitors centre lined with archive photographs, it has limpid, jewel-coloured waters that mimic Miami Beach’s shallows at their most inviting. There’s an onsite cafe with family-friendly lunches, too. Children must be aged three and over to visit (adults $21/£17, children $16/£13).

Where to stay in Miami

Arlo Wynwood

The rooftop pool at Arlo Wynwood, Miami (Arlo Wynwood)

This hot newcomer is in the heart of Wynwood Arts District, surrounded by bass-thumping bars and some of the best food in town. But it’s a serene, soundproofed spot to retreat to – especially the mellow rooftop with its swimming pool with cocktail-crafting bar team. You can do yoga on a roof terrace three times a week, while your key card niftily gets you free entry or money off several stops around town, including the famed Wynwood Walls. Food and drink is also beautifully crafted with a sultry bar terrace and rave-reviewed restaurant, MaryGold’s.

1 Hotel South Beach

1 Hotel lobby, Miami (HOST photography)

White’n’wicker beach house chic, rooftop sushi platters, expert fitness sessions, freshly-blitzed smoothies… this “it” hotel is about as Miami-glam as it gets. A large white complex right on Miami Beach, the 1 may attract a jet-set crowd of celebrities and influencers, but that’s only because it has the plushest day beds, the biggest mega-suites and the healthiest food outlets. Grab vegan lunches and superlative smoothies from Plnthouse, then borrow the free bikes for a breezy pedal along the Beachwalk. The best bit? Sustainability is front of mind: all 1 Hotels are 100 per cent carbon neutral, with filtered water taps in each room, reclaimed timber in the decor and electric cars that’ll ferry you around the neighbourhood for free.

The Betsy

This venerable old Grand Dame sits at the very north of Ocean Drive, the start of a parade of historic, beautifully preserved hotels. Polished and old-school with a distinct European slant, it has a secret-feeling rooftop pool and plenty of quiet corners (an air-conditioned reading room, multiple roof terraces) to retreat to. Food is swish steak and seafood at LT restaurant or five-star egg-white omelettes and strong coffee on its popular front porch. Don’t miss “CEO cocktail hour” (that’s Canine Executive Officer) with resident dogs, Betsy and Rosa.

The Miami Beach EDITION

The Miami Beach EDITION - Bungalow Pool View Suite (Miami Beach EDITION)

Ian Schrager’s fashion-crowd hotel group has swept into the world’s most glamorous cities, and Miami is no exception. Its Mid-Beach outpost has a wow-factor, high-ceilinged lobby with glittering gold columns, huge potted palms and a pool table, leading to the most tranquil, tropical-leafy pool gardens in town. Rooms are in clean-cut cream, many with dazzling views of palm trees, then ocean. Take advantage of the free coffees and beignets laid out in reception each morning – grab a to-go cup and fill up via the heated dispensers, then head out on Miami’s waterfront.

Read more of our best Miami hotel reviews

Where to eat in Miami

News Cafe

This “historic” (in American terms – we’re talking 1988) cafe reopened in March 2023 after a three-year closure. Located in the buzziest stretch of South Beach’s Ocean Drive, it’s a vibrant place to stop by for a bacon and egg roll or a bowl of yoghurt and fruit, while swing tunes and old crooners play and locals cycle and skate by.

Stiltsville Fish Bar

The adorable Tackle Box at Stiltsville Fish Bar (Grove Bay Hospitality Group)

Fresh seafood is a must here, and this understated hangout is the place to eat it. Head down to Sunset Harbour, where locals park their boats and walk their dogs, to browse its quirky bathtubs packed full of crushed ice and the catch of the day. The “tackle box” is a cute selection of raw seafood served in a fisherman’s toolbox, while fresh oysters pair well with citrus-spritzed fish crudo, and coconut shrimp and crab cakes are ripe for sharing. Pick up a pot of chef Janine Booth’s divine-smelling sea salt and coconut body scrub, which she sells at the bar.

Swan

You can’t come to Miami without visiting a celebrity’s restaurant – Gloria Estefan, Bad Bunny, Pitbull and DJ Khaled all have businesses here. Our pick is singer and producer Pharrell Williams’ Swan, in the city’s shopping haven, Miami Design District. Perched among grand-design Louis Vuitton and Hermès boutiques, it’s got a Wes Anderson look, with vintage-style furnishings in mint green and pink, as well as a fairylight-strung patio. The food is as A-list as you’d expect: think caviar and lobster spaghetti, juicy steaks and truffle fries.

Mila

MILA, Miami (MILA )

To mingle with the beautiful crowd, book a table at rooftop Mila, in Miami Beach. Modelesque types come to clink martinis and nibble on sushi at this sultry venue with a water garden on its terrace. And, incredibly, the Asian-Mediterranean menu is as delicious as it is photogenic: swoony beef tenderloin comes in a crisp sugary crust, yellowtail tuna is set off by an avocado, coconut and chilli dressing, sushi is expertly crafted, and dessert is practically a mini art installation. An open kitchen adds some sizzle and smoke to proceedings. Book a tasting menu from £127pp or go a la carte, but warm and welcoming staff will guide you.

Where to drink in Miami

Ball and Chain

Ball & Chain, Miami (Ball & Chain)

A must-see in bar-packed Little Havana, this saloon-style bar has been around since 1935, with Billie Holiday and Count Basie both performing in its golden era. Stop by to listen to live salsa trios while sipping a tobacco-tinged Old Fashioned and taking in the archive photos and newspaper clippings that line the walls.

Mac’s Club Deuce

This fabulous old dive bar on Miami Beach’s 14th Street is pure Americana: think checkerboard floor, pool table, neon signage and an actual jukebox. The latter may be updated and digitised, but as Miami’s oldest bar, the vibes here are immaculate – complete with quirky regulars, cash-only transactions and a tiny straw in your no-frills spirit and mixer.

Palace

This Ocean Drive bar-nightclub is an icon of Miami’s glorious LGBTQ+ scene, with local drag queens entertaining the punters from brunch time to kicking-out time. Share a giant frozen margarita to get into the groove. Make your reservation weeks in advance for brunch slots, especially around weekends – this is one popular palace.

Where to shop in Miami

Faena Bazaar, Miami Beach

This wonderland of vintage and reworked clothing is part costume shop, part homewares market – you’ll find it in the glamorous Faena Design District around 34th Street. Snap up a gaudy 1970s kaftan or a flapper-girl dress, or peruse Italian-style coloured glassware and gorgeous costume jewellery.

Pitusa, Wynwood

Pitusa boutique, Miami (Pitusa Boutique)

It’s impossible not to be lured in by the rainbow-dyed, neon-tinged sundresses and beachwear at this homegrown, female-owned boutique. Browse tasselled skirts and woven bags, all in crisp beachy whites and bohemian colour combinations; this candy-pink store ethically employs craftspeople in Peru and India to weave its unique creations.

The Wolfsonian gift shop, Miami Beach

The Wolfsonian-FIU museum, a couple of blocks back from the beach, contains tons of art and design treasures, from Art Deco building facades to ceramics and propaganda posters. But its greatest hit is the gift shop, accessible from Washington Avenue, stuffed with classy souvenirs for all ages. Think glossy art books, creative tote bags and toys, Deco-inspired jewellery and colourful kitchenware.

For trashy-chic souvenirs (think Scarface mugs and neon-printed shirts), you can’t beat the gift shops along Calle Ocho in Little Havana.

Architectural highlight

The Leslie hotel, Miami (Getty Images)

It’s got to be the timewarp Art Deco hotels along Collins Avenue and Ocean Drive. The Leslie has been most beautifully restored, but you’ll want to capture every sugary pastel facade.

Insider tip

Miami’s nightlife gets overwhelmed around US colleges’ spring break, which falls around the first two weeks of April. If you want a serene, grown up South Beach experience, book another month.

Nuts and bolts

What currency do I need?

US dollars. Most places take cards, but bring some notes for tips, pool tables and jukeboxes.

What language is spoken?

English, but you’ll hear just as much if not more Spanish.

Should I tip?

Yes, as with all of the US – around 18 to 22 per cent is expected with meals, or a couple of dollars per drink or coffee.

How should I get around?

Uber is a reliable way to get around this sprawling city, but Miami authorities have also been working hard to streamline its public transport. Take advantage of the free Metromover monorail between the central business districts, and look up the $2.25 (£1.85) 150 bus which runs between Miami Beach and the airport (cabs will run to more like $45/£36). The city’s free trolley system shuttles up and down the beach by day.

What’s the best view?

Miami Beach’s brightly painted lifeguard towers at dawn, ideally seen from a bike whizzing along the Beachwalk.

Getting there

Virgin Atlantic flies to Miami daily from London Heathrow, with fares from £421 return.