Monterey City guide: where to eat, drink, shop and stay in the chic seaside town on America’s Pacific Coast

How to make the most of a weekend in the Californian coastal town

(Copyright: SeeMonterey.com)

When Big Little Lies hit screens last year it quickly became clear that the most memorable performance wasn't by an actor, but by Monterey where the show is set. Even Hollywood heavyweights Reese Witherspoon and Nicole Kidman can’t compete with spectacular houses perched above crashing waves under the setting sun.

Not that the picturesque seaside town needed putting on the map. Monterey gained infamy thanks to John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel Cannery Row, named after the main coast-hugging road which was then the lifeblood of the sardine fishing industry.

Today the sardines have long gone, and Cannery Row feels like its been designed specifically for Instagram. Think carefully restored industrial buildings and rustic shacks with retro signage, interspersed with slices of pristine sandy beach.

You’ll find chic cafes, eclectic shops, relaxed bars and, of course, world class seafood restaurants. Monterey’s food scene is thriving, thanks to its Mediterranean climate and proximity to California’s Central Valley (which produces over half of America’s salad produce) and wineries, meaning you can enjoy the freshest ingredients and heaven-sent grapevines.

What to do

Pedal power

Rent bikes from Adventures By The Sea to explore endless miles of sea views and wide beaches on the gentle coastal cycling path. An easy pitstop for lunch is the charming town Carmel-by-the-Sea is, with plenty of art galleries, eateries and the megamansion enclave of Pebble Beach.

Spa time

Vista Blue Spa at Monterey Plaza Hotel doesn't take luxury lightly. It’s Mecca for anyone on a quest to experience wellbeing and relaxation at its finest, with hot tubs on their sun-soaked sundeck, steam rooms, and a range of signature massages. Try the Deep Tissue with hot towels, guaranteed to make you feel two inches taller.

Open water

The best way to really experience Monterey is from the ocean. Rent a kayak from Adventures By The Sea to explore the jagged coastline, where you’re guaranteed to see gliding otters and noisy seals. Monterey is also one of the best places to see whales year-round. Join a boat tour (montereywhalewatching.com) or you might even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse offshore.

Nicole Kidman meets some Monterey locals shooting the second series of Big Little Lies

Hit the Wharf

Downtown’s Old Fisherman's Wharf is a great place to take in the sights, sounds and smells of Monterey. Neighbouring Wharf 2 is the heart of the fishing industry, so you can watch the trawlers unloading the catch of the day. Stop by Paluca Trattoria, the inspiration for the the fictional Blue Blues Café in Big Little Lies.

Where to stay

At Spindrift Inn on Cannery Row the feel is grand opulence meets relaxed Californian beach vibes. The staff are super friendly, and rooms feature an open fireplace, luxe wallpaper, brass light fixtures, sumptuous soft furnishings, and many have sweeping ocean views. Breakfast is delivered to your room at the time of your choice, and there’s daily complimentary local wine and cheese - best enjoyed taking in the view from the rooftop. Rooms from $142 (£103) plus tax.

Rooms at Spindrift Inn have open fireplaces in each room

Where to eat

Breakfast

Grab artisan food and thoughtfully sourced coffee at ocean-front cafe Tidal Coffee. There are mouthwatering pastries and baked goods on display, or ask about the secret gooey granola bars that are so popular they keep them out of sight.

Lunch

Showcasing more than 90 Monterey-area wineries, A Taste of Monterey will quickly become any wine lover’s favourite museum. Experts offer catered wine tasting programmes, or opt for a flight of local Pinot Noirs or Chardonnays for just $21 (£16). Add homemade flatbread pizzas, a prized local artichoke, and an unbeatable coastal view for a perfect leisurely afternoon.

Dinner

Asking Monterey locals to choose the best place for seafood is like making them pick a favourite child. But all agree that The Sardine Factory is a must-visit. It has drawn world leaders, sports stars and Hollywood’s finest since it opened in 1968, but makes every guest feels like a celebrity. Try local Sand Dab (a sweeter Dover Sole) in the lightest parmesan batter, and you’ll beg for the recipe of the famous Abalone chowder. There’s also live entertainment, impossible-to-resist Happy Hours and incredible decor.

The Sardine Factory has hosted celebrities including Elizabeth Taylor and Clint Eastwood

Where to drink

The super luxe Portola Hotel has just had a $6 million renovation, and it’s home to the cast and crew of Big Little Lies while they film the second series in Monterey. Settle into a cost leather booth by the fireside in Jack’s Bar and enjoy the Boozy Buggy cocktail cart, or enjoy bottomless Mimosas with your brunch.

Need to Know

What currency do I need?

US dollars.

Should I tip?

Tipping is very much expected in the US, with the rule of thumb being 15 to 20 per cent for anyone in the service industry.

What’s the time difference?

Monterey is on GMT-7.

When’s best to go?

The summers offer cooler, mild weather with morning mist that usually clears by noon. September and October are typically warm and clear with average highs of 70 degrees.

How do I get around?

Monterrey is very walkable, or rent a bike to explore more than 18 miles of cycle paths.

What’s the flight time from the UK?

Norwegian runs direct flights to San Francisco that take around 10 hours, from £180 one way, from there it’s two hours by car. Car hire with Hertz.co.uk will from £40 per day. For further road trip inspiration, head to the Hertz Road Trip Planner and discover iconic and off-the-beaten track routes, downloadable maps and insider guides.

For more information visit canneryrow.com or www.visittheusa.co.uk. Big Little Lies returns on Sky in 2019

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