48 indulgent hours in Edinburgh

From a pint at the pictures to a spot of retail therapy, Rhiannon Batten spoils herself in Scotland's capital

WHY GO NOW?

Because over the past year Edinburgh has gradually taken over Glasgow's crown as the most indulgent destination north of the border. New multi-million pound health clubs, designer hotels and gourmet restaurants are all reinforcing the city's reputation for luxury - the proof, if needed, being the opening of Louis Vuitton and Harvey Nichols stores in town. But Edinburgh's renaissance doesn't stop at shopping. In July, its lofty cultural position is reaffirmed with the opening of the High Society exhibition, focusing on the work of the society portrait painter, Sir Francis Grant, at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery at 1 Queen Street (0131-624 6499) open 10am-5pm from Monday to Saturday and 12 noon-5pm on Sundays; admission £4, under-12s free.

BEAM DOWN

The fastest trains from London King's Cross take four hours to reach Waverley station ; fares start at £36 in standard class, or you can indulge yourself in first class for £59. From York, the journey time is under three hours, for fares starting at £22 in standard class; and from Newcastle, the 90-minute journey costs a minimum of £18 return. For the lowest fares, book through GNER (08457 225 225; www.gner.co.uk) in advance for specific trains. Edinburgh is also served by ScotRail and Virgin Trains - call national rail enquiries (08457 484 950) for details of times and fares. National Express (08705 808 080; www.gobycoach.com) runs bus services from throughout the UK. By air, BMI (08706 070 555; www.flybmi.com), Bmibaby (08702 642 229; www.bmibaby.com), British Airways (08457 733 377; www.ba.com), easyJet (08706 000 000; www.easyjet.com), FlyBE (08705 676 676; www.flybe.com), Scot Airways (08706 060 707; www.scotairways.com) fly to Edinburgh from various UK airports. Airlink buses take about 30 minutes from the airport to the city centre and cost £5 return (0131-555 63 63; www.flybus.com). A taxi costs a lot more - around £18 each way, more on Sundays.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The centre of Edinburgh is split by the railway line into two halves - the Old Town and the New Town. In the Old Town you'll find the Royal Mile, which ends at the Castle . The New Town contains most of the shops and lots of lovely Georgian architecture. For a free map and other information, visit Edinburgh's main Tourist Information Centre at 3 Princes Street (0131-473 3800; www.edinburgh.org).

CHECK IN

The Glasshouse at 2 Greenside Place (0131 525 8200; www.etontownhouse.com) is the newest hotel in town, and the only one with a rooftop garden, although its controversial naked artwork isn't the kind of indulgence all guests will appreciate. There's currently a special opening rate of £110 per double but after 31 July the standard double rate goes up to £175, without breakfast . Another good option is the Scotsman , with luxurious doubles from £180, including breakfast, at 20 North Bridge (0131-556 5565; www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk). On a slightly tighter budget, indulge yourself at the Apex International on the Grassmarket , 61 Grassmarket (0845 608 3456; www.apexhotels.co.uk). For £80 per double you get more luxury here than you'd expect for the price.

TAKE A VIEW

The roof garden at the Museum of Scotland in Chambers Street, (0131-247 4422; www.nms.ac.uk) offers almost 360-degree views of the city, open 10am to 5pm Monday to Saturday; late opening Tuesday to 8pm; 12noon to 5pm Sundays, admission free. Visit the Tower restaurant for lunch on a sunny day and sip champagne on the terrace, overlooking the castle (for bookings call 0131-225 3003).

TAKE A HIKE

Follow the Water of Leith from the gentrified Georgian enclave of Stockbridge , with its cafés and boutiques, along the well-marked waterside pathway to the Dean Gallery at 73 Belford Road (0131-624 6200) and the Gallery of Modern Art at 75 Belford Road (0131- 624 6200) - both open 10am to 5pm daily, admission free except for special exhibitions.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

The city's popular restaurant-cum-emporium of all things chocolatey, Plaisir du Chocolat , at 251-253 Canongate (0131-556 9524), has opened a smaller but equally elegant café and takeaway a few doors up at 270 Canongate, open 11am to 7pm at weekends. What could be more indulgent than a mini paté baguette (£2.50), a slice of triple chocolate mousse cake (£3) and a bottle of traditional French lemonade (£2.50) to go?

TAKE A RIDE

The Britannia Tour bus is a good way to see the less obvious city sights. Hop on at the stop on Waverley Bridge and you'll wind your way through the New Town, past Fettes College (where Tony Blair got an education) and the Botanical Gardens , to Leith and the Royal Yacht Britannia . A round-trip costs £8.50 for adults or £2.50 for children. This doesn't include entry to the royal yacht, but it gets you 10 per cent off the going rate (£8 adults, £4 children) - currently open 9.30am to 4.30pm daily (0131-555 5566; www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk). A cheaper and more direct way to get to the Royal Yacht is on bus 22 from Princes Street (£1.60 return).

WINDOW SHOPPING

William Street , in the West End, has won itself a reputation as the chicest address in town in recent years. Two of the best shops for clothes are Arkangel at 4 William Street (0131-226 4466) and Sam Thomas at 5 William Street (0131-476 4771). For shoes, try Helen Bateman at 16 William Street (0131-220 4495). Alternatively, prepare your credit card for a bruising and head for Harvey Nichols at 30-34 St Andrew Square (0131-524 8388).

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

Finding a cinema with special perks is a good way to ward off the chill of a rainy Edinburgh afternoon. If it's huge seats you're after, head for the new Omni complex at the top of Leith Walk on Greenside Place (08702 406 020) and grab yourself some gold class tickets for £7.50 each. But if luxury in your book combines drinking with viewing, try the Cameo Cinema instead, at 38 Home Street (0131-228 4141); standard tickets £5.50. Drinks you buy in the bar can be taken into the theatres. To feel like a screen goddess (or god), book in at the Scotsman Hotel's new screening room , at 20 North Bridge (0131-556 5565). The first show is on 29 June and the £35 price includes a champagne cocktail, a two course dinner in the hotel's posh Vermilion restaurant and a classic movie.

AN APERITIF

Take an indulgent perch on the rooftop terrace of Oloroso restaurant at 33 Castle Street (0131-226 7614) and sip something cold and strong (and probably award-winning, judging by the number of accolades it keeps gathering) while looking across towards either the castle or Fife, depending which side you're on. Alternatively, if it's luxury in a pint glass you're after take the number 7 bus from North Bridge to Newhaven (£1.60 return) and sit and sup a pint of Deuchars IPA in the Starbank Inn's good, old-fashioned surroundings, overlooking the Firth of Forth , at 64 Laverockbank Road (0131-552 4141).

DINNER WITH THE LOCALS

Atrium , at the Traverse Theatre, 10 Cambridge Street (0131-228 8882)has been winning awards ever since it opened in 1993. Housed inside the theatre's glass and steel building, the atmosphere is salvaged by the restaurant's cosy wood and cream-coloured interior. The food is very Scottish (and mostly organic) but this kind of culinary luxury doesn't come cheap. Dinner for two, without wine, will set you back around £70 . Less exclusive but equally opulent is the newly re-opened Vintner's Rooms , at 87 Giles Street, Leith (0131-554 6767), a former wine merchants' auction room now lit prettily by candlelight. Dinner here will cost around £60 for two

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

St Giles' Cathedral is the most prominent of Edinburgh's churches, with its dark grey bulk taking pride of place near the top of the Royal Mile (0131-225 9442), admission free. The main service is at 11.30am on Sundays but for those who just want a peek, time your visit to coincide with the free weekly concerts which run each Sunday at 6pm.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Valvona and Crolla at 19 Elm Row (0131- 556 6066; www.valvonacrolla.co.uk) is one of the city's oldest and best delicatessens, perfect for a trolley-dash on fresh bread, rich olive oils and obscure Italian cheeses. Brunch at the bright and busy café at the back, open 8am-6.30pm Saturdays and 11am-5pm Sundays. The menu ranges from cheese and pancetta pastries (£1.95) and crumbly lemon polenta cake (£3.95), to a plate of rosemary and garlic roasted lamb (£11.95).

WRITE A POSTCARD

Find inspiration at the National Library of Scotland at George IV Bridge (0131-226 4531). The library's current exhibition, Wish You Were Here, features the reactions to the city from Edinburgh's more celebrated visitors. It opens 10am-5pm from Monday to Saturday and 2-5pm on Sundays until 31 October, admission free. The library's shop has a good selection of postcards at 20p.

A WALK IN THE PARK

You can't beat Holyrood Park for a bit of urban greenery. Lie and laze on the sheltered grass behind Holyrood Palace or, if you're feeling energetic, clamber up to the top of Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano, for fantastic views right across the city and out, across the Firth of Forth, to Fife.

THE ICING ON THE CAKE

Things don't get more indulgent in Edinburgh than a half-day (four hours if they're being strict) pass to One Spa at the Sheraton Grand at 8 Conference Square (0131-221 7777; www.one-spa.com). The shock of the £40 admission charge is soon soothed away by the pleasures of two swimming pools (one is outside), various saunas, a laconium (a kind of warm room where you can put your feet up and drift off to the sound of trickling water) and elaborate hammams. To spoil yourself thoroughly, book in for a treatment while you're there. The new treatments are holistic balancing (£110), holistic pulsing (£60) and craniosacral therapy (£60).