Plate With A View: Kits Coty Kent

Kits Coty is a pile of Neolithic stones dating from 2,500BC - as if a little bit of Stonehenge had wandered off and settled in Kent. But there is nothing prehistoric about the sleek restaurant that borrows its name from these ancient megaliths.

There is a Mediterranean slant to the cooking here, with wild mushroom and fennel risotto and focaccia bread with goat's cheese among the entrees. I started with crispy duck rolls, pickled vegetables and cashew nuts, and the flavours, as with my main course of fillet of beef, wild mushroom and oxtail pie, were well differentiated. My wife and I shared a sticky toffee pudding with roast fig and clotted cream, although we wished we'd been less communal. .

THE VIEW

Kits Coty stands atop Bluebell Hill on the North Downs, a spot far less bucolic than it sounds thanks to the nearby M20. Despite this, the view is undeniably wide and spectacular - stretching far off into the Weald of Kent. You can enjoy the panorama either from the conservatory or, an outside terrace in the summer.

THE BILL

Starters were all £5.95, mains £15.50 and puddings were £5.95. These prices are steep if you were to judge by the distinctly nouvelle cuisine size of the servings alone - but I think - taking the meal as a whole - the portions were well-judged.

Kits Coty, 15 Old Chatham Road, Bluebell Hill, Kent (01634 684 445; www.kitscoty.co.uk)