Sleepover: Old Rectory Country House

A bed for the night in North Wales

Where is it?

Outside the unpronounceable village of Llansanffriad Glan Conwy, overlooking the wide sweep of the Conwy estuary with splendid views of Snowdonia. The hotel is about an hour and a half drive from Manchester or Liverpool, close to the north Wales coast on the A470. Or you can reach it by train from London in about four hours.

What's it like?

The Old Rectory dates back to 1810. It's now a small-scale hotel with just six bedrooms serving probably the best food in Wales. It's run by Michael and Wendy Vaughan who converted it from a family home about 20 years ago. If the first impression is underwhelming, neither grand nor quaint, once in situ, the Old Rectory works its charms, starting with the staggering views from its very pretty grounds. The hotel is extremely relaxed. It is filled with antiques and objets but falls well short of Laura Ashley naffness.

What's its USP?

Food, glorious food. The restaurant is dripping with accolades: for those who think Wales and fine food are unlikely bedfellows, think again. All the cooking is done by Wendy Vaughan. Entirely self-taught, the former nurse, who was told by her school domestic science teacher that she would never be able to cook, has now won a Michelin star for several years on the trot – making her consistently the best-rated chef in Wales.

Service?

Michael Vaughan is a walking, talking guidebook. He has in-depth local knowledge and can draw up a daily itinerary if you want. He and Wendy are extremely accommodating taking turns to entertain our energetic four-month-old daughter. Drinks and canapés are served from 7.30pm in the drawing room where guests lounge on sofas and are actually encouraged to chat to each other. Michael makes the introductions and the drinks. A Welsh harpist comes in every now and again to entertain the guests.

Rooms?

There are only six, all with en suite. The rooms are not huge but full of character. Oursoffered a Victorian four-poster bed, a luxury bathroom and a view over a quiet courtyard garden. Prices vary but it's worth paying the extra to stay in the main house. (The rooms in the coach house looked distinctly less appealing.) Prices, for two people, including dinner and breakfast, range from £169 per night in low season to £229 per night for the best rooms in high season. They will quote a price without dinner, but, frankly, that would be foolish.

Food?

Astonishing. The menu is fixed – Wendy stopped offering a choice some years ago – and based upon what's best on the day: fresh, in season and available locally. Picky eaters – like my non-red meat eating wife – are catered for. The first night we had staggeringly tasty roast spiced monkfish with vanilla risotto in a red wine sauce and basil oil – and that was just for starters. The main course was loin of Welsh mountain lamb with cabbage parcels and olive potatoes. Puddings are even more exciting. With six different desserts on two plates, I went to bed dreaming of the next night's meal. That was just as good. The wine list is extensive.

Clientele?

A real mixture. Obviously gluttons and gourmands are well-catered for but so too are hikers, with mountains a plenty to hike in. Walkers with big appetites would perhaps be the ideal. Guests when we stayed included a middle-aged couple from Philadelphia and well-to-do honeymooners from Suffolk.

Things to do?

With Snowdon beckoning, walking is the obvious attraction. Plus, Bodnant Garden – one of the finest in the country and with the mountains providing a spectacular backdrop – is just down the road and unmissable. Then there are the castles. not least nearby Conwy Castle, built by Edward I in the 13th century.

Address?

The Old Rectory Country House, Llansanffriad Glan Conwy, Near Conwy, North Wales LL28 5LF (01492 580611; www.oldrectorycountryhouse.co.uk).