Can you recommend the best way to travel to Norway to view the northern lights?
Simon Calder answers your questions on natural phenomena, trips to Guyana and how to explore the Silk Roads
Q My friend and I have tried twice to travel to Norway to see the northern lights. Both times the trip was cancelled. Can you recommend the best way to see the spectacle, travelling from north Wales?
Aileen
A When electrically charged particles emitted by the sun collide in their billions with the nitrogen and oxygen that make up most of Earth’s atmosphere, the results can be enchanting. The northern lights comprise an extraordinary phenomenon that, thanks to the transportational miracles of the modern age, many of us may see at least once in our lifetimes. On a cold, clear and dark winter's night, the horizon fills with colour from intense greens and blues to soft pinks and silvers. The bands dance in time with surges from the sun, illuminating frozen landscapes of the far north.
The odds of seeing the aurora borealis (“northern dawn”, to give the spectacle its Latin name) improve with every degree you move north – and every night you can spend at high latitudes. The best option is the Hurtigruten, the “Coastal Express” ferry that runs daily from Bergen to the far north of northern Norway. In early March or late October, you benefit from a balance between night and day, maximising the chances of a northern lights sighting but also allowing you to enjoy breathtaking coastal scenery and beautiful islands.
A good travel agent can put together a package for you, combining full-board accommodation on the ship with flights to and from Norway. You will benefit from the very heavy subsidies paid by the Norwegian government to keep the Hurtigruten running, and enjoy excellent food and comfortable quarters at far less than they would cost on dry land in Norway. Finally, new flights between Liverpool and Bergen begin in late March, and will still be flying in late October – ideal for anyone in north Wales.
Q I have booked flights with Singapore Airlines which have dropped significantly in price since I booked. Can I ask them to adjust their price downwards or is this just bad luck on my behalf?
David F
A It is infuriating when you commit to buying a ticket at price X, and then find that exactly the same seat on the same plane at the same time to the same destination is suddenly X minus 20, or even 50, per cent. This happens to me quite a lot. My coping strategy is simple: not to look at whether the cost has changed after I've booked. Sometimes, though, I can't resist doing so. Mostly the fare has risen, but sometimes it can fall dramatically, for example to half-price on Ryanair once for a family trip.
In bygone times, if the price of a flight fell after you had bought it, you could actually claim the difference back, in vouchers, on some airlines. The last time I successfully did this was about a decade ago, with WestJet of Canada. Early on easyJet did the same, but they have now fallen in line with the other carriers.
Their justification is fair: if you buy at a particular price, you are, by definition, content with your purchase. Generally, the price will only increase towards departure date. But if there is significant unsold capacity, the airline will reluctantly cut the price to try to stimulate bookings – rather than taking off with that most perishable of commodities, empty seats.
One exception to my “don’t look back” rule: British Airways has a superb “change your mind within 24 hours” option if you book at ba.com. I always take a peek about half an hour before that window expires, and sometimes find that, indeed, the price has come down. I call the airline, cancel the original booking for a full refund, and immediately rebook at the lower price.
One final thought: at almost any price, the Singapore Airlines service is superb. I hope you get to fly in the Airbus A380, which is my favourite economy product anywhere.
Q I heard you recommending Guyana for 2023 because of new flights. But I thought it was very dangerous there?
Jilly C
A On 27 March British Airways will acquire a third destination in South America when some flights to Antigua each week are extended to Georgetown, Guyana. I have been lucky enough to visit this nation – formerly known as British Guiana – twice, and found it fascinating and friendly. The landscapes and wildlife are the main attractions, and who wouldn’t want to take the road to the Surinam border, which passes through hamlets named Success, Paradise, Profit and Whim?
Georgetown is also a pleasure for anyone who enjoys a gently crumbling colonial capital, complete with strident statue of Queen Victoria and a weatherbeaten cricket ground (the only Test venue in South America). The skyline is dominated by a gigantic clapperboard cathedral: St George’s, 142ft high, is claimed to be the largest wooden building in the world.
Outside Georgetown, I felt no threat and was, in fact, very well looked after by the local people. But the capital is far from risk-free. The US State Department warns: “Exercise increased situational awareness in certain areas of Georgetown due to increased reports of robberies, sexual assaults and homicides.”
The Foreign Office picks up the theme: “Take particular care in the Stabroek Market area where robberies are a daily occurrence. Avoid walking alone around Georgetown, even in the main areas, and don’t walk anywhere at night. Muggings have taken place in broad daylight, often at gun or knifepoint. Burglary and theft from cars is commonplace. Take sensible precautions to protect yourself and your belongings. Try to avoid showing obvious signs of wealth.”
I was, I think, on the point of being mugged one morning in Georgetown when, alone, I was confronted by two individuals. But just at that moment a family rounded a corner and bundled me out of harm’s way. Were I lucky enough to return, I would spend only a limited time in the capital – and enlist the help of a local guide when sightseeing.
Q Next year, I want to go to Samarkand and explore some of the Silk Road. What do you recommend?
Tony G
A I recommend a trip exploring Uzbekistan, where Samarkand and other Silk Road gems are located. Fly with Turkish Airlines into the capital, Tashkent – a fascinating city. Much of it is pure Soviet era, with broad boulevards and imposing 20th-century buildings – but with some more historic aspects. The Chorzu Bazaar is colourful and lively. Accommodation is excellent value in Tashkent and anywhere else in Uzbekistan. Getting around the city is easy, with loads of cheap and reliable taxis.
When you are ready to leave, take a cab to the city’s impressive railway station, and board the Afrosiyob train to Samarkand. Uzbekistan has the only high-speed railway in Central Asia, and the Spanish-built rolling stock is comfortable, reliable and cheap – costing around £30 for the two-hour ride to Samarkand.
Stay a couple of days: explore the Registan at the heart of Samarkand, the spectacular convergence of mosques, palaces and minarets. Then wander across to the Soviet side of the city, and marvel that ancient Samarkand is in much better condition that the 20th-century city. Samarkand has plenty of good places to dine, and if you are there in summer you can eat al fresco on excellent, fresh and spicy fare.
Bukhara, a further two hours away on the same high-speed line. It is smaller and more intensely Islamic, and definitely worth another couple of days. For a final flourish, pay approximately £80 (ideally shared between several travellers) for the four-hour road journey, along Uzbekistan’s best road, to Khiva – a miraculous, medieval walled city comprising mud-huts, minarets and monuments. Khiva is simply one of the most astonishing places on earth, and yet has great places to stay and eat, and an international airport only half-an-hour away in the city of Urgench. From here you can fly back on one of the twice-daily departures to Tashkent in 80 minutes, for a fare of around £40, and return to the UK – ideally pausing in Istanbul for more of the Silk Road vibe.
Email your question to s@hols.tv or tweet @simoncalder
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