Chantelle Nicholson on kid's tasting menus, substitute foods and starting at the Savoy

Despite having a strong focus on vegan and vegetarian food, Chantelle is neither of them. Instead she thinks we should focus less on categorising and labelling, and just enjoy the food we want

Beginning her professional career as a lawyer ins New Zealand, Chantelle changed everything and moved to the UK for a job at the Savoy Grill

You describe yourself as a “polymath chef” on your twitter profile, why is that?

It was a phrase to describe the fact that I’m not only a chef but I'm involved in many other facets, such as the business side of things, operations and an author.

Did you ever imagine while training to become a lawyer in New Zealand that you’d one day be the chef patron of a restaurant and specialise in vegan food?

Never! But looking back I feel my upbringing shaped my love for fruit and vegetables.

Did growing up in a farming community in New Zealand’s north island influence your cooking style?

Absolutely. We had access to fresh produce and also grew some of our own, which gave me the appreciation for it I now have.

How do you think attitudes towards food and food culture differ between New Zealand and the UK?

Given the scale and population there are big differences in NZ, because we are so small and isolated, seasonal eating was more of a necessity. You couldn’t buy strawberries or asparagus all year round so they were seen as something to be enjoyed in the moment.

Kohlrabi ravioli from her cookbook, Planted (Nassima Rothacker)

You moved to the UK in 2004 to work at the Savoy. What was it like to work in one of the country’s most prestigious hotel kitchens?

I was in the Grill, and not being from the UK I don’t think I realised the enormity of it all. I think this naivety was in fact a blessing now as I’m not sure I would have been as able to just get on with it had I realised!

How did it feel to get back in the kitchen at Tredwells in 2015 after having a more operational role for the company for a few years beforehand?

It felt like I’d never left a kitchen. And it felt like I was back where I belonged. I had learned a huge amount being out of it for a number of years.

How important is seasonality to you?

It’s very important – food just tastes better, plus it allows it to be more of a conscious and present source of enjoyment.

Your restaurant specifically caters for vegetarians and vegans, but you’re neither, so why does your cooking have such a strong focus on both?

I sometimes feel we focus too much on categorising. I enjoy food, a lot! I love vegetables, fruit, cheese, fish and meat. To be able to create delicious food using all of these ingredients is what I enjoy doing. People have different likes and needs but overall eating out should be relaxing and enjoyable, so that’s the main reason I ensure there’s a range of dishes for everyone on the menu at Tredwells.

You use aquafaba, the watery substance that comes from chickpea tins, in a lot of recipes in your debut cook book, Planted. Where did this idea come from?

I first read about it on Twitter, but I was a little dubious of it being just another alternative for something. Until I tried it... I was amazed, and very excited that something we usually throw away could be so versatile.

As well as catering for vegetarians, vegans and those with food intolerances, Tredwells also has an innovative children’s tasting menu – what made you want to include this too?

If we can get kids engaged and interested in food at a young age, and educate them, then hopefully our overall future health, and food system, will be in a better place. Plus, I thought a tasting menu may help occupy the kids more, so family members get to relax more and enjoy their own experience.

What’s been the highlight of your career?

There are too many to list. Being a chef means you get to meet so many amazing people and have experiences that are incredible.

Do you think being is a chef is still a male dominated world?

Factually it is, there are more males in it than females. There are many reasons for this – family being a huge one. But there are many talented females out there.

Who, or what, do you look to for inspiration?

Inspiration is everywhere – from new season produce, to a post on Instagram to an old, classic cookbook. Food is something that is an eternal journey and there is always so much more to learn, which is a huge motivation.

After the success of your cookbook which was published in April, do you have another in the pipeline?

Not at this stage, I’m focusing on Tredwells and everything else I’m part of for the next wee while!

Chantelle Nicholson is the chef patron at Tredwells restaurant (tredwells.com)