Even Jamie Oliver’s ridiculous new cooking show can’t kill off our love for air fryers

They’ve taken social media by storm, but as Hannah Twiggs discovers, air fryers are nothing new and the jokes about Oliver’s new show won’t stop the boom. Here, she delves into the fascinating history of what has become Britain’s most-loved kitchen gadget and serves up the recipes you can’t do without

‘Jamie Oliver’s Air Fryer Meals’, basically a two-hour-long advert for Tefal, has become a talking point – and not in a good way (Channel 4)

You have to give it to air fryers: they survived the hype.

Not all aggressively marketed, overpriced kitchen gadgets have staying power. We’ve all got a Nutribullet or George Foreman grill lurking in the darkest crevice of the loft, forming a support group.

But when it comes to the latest “miraculous” kitchen must-have, over a third of households now have one and the air fryer market is expected to reach nearly $2bn (£1.6bn) worldwide by 2032. TikTok videos of people showcasing their favourite recipes and “hacks” now have a quarter of a billion views. That’s a lot of air fryer chips.

It’s the source of inspiration for countless social media accounts, cookbooks and TV shows, the latest of which being the Tefal-sponsored, new two-part series for Channel 4, Jamie Oliver’s Air Fryer Meals. When Jamie Oliver jumps on the bandwagon, you know it’s serious. While he’s been loudly criticised for putting out what feels like a two-hour ad for Tefal with an interval, he undoubtedly makes the recipe look easy and edible. Which, I suppose, is the point.

Love them or hate them, even the staunchest critics have embraced air fryers. Cook and Young MasterChef judge Poppy O’Toole released The Actually Delicious Air Fryer Cookbook last summer, which was enough to persuade former denier Nigella Lawson to write on her website: “I’m glad to say I am now a convert!”

There was even a one-day-only air fryer restaurant pop-up in London last year, sponsored by eBay, which saw “air fryer king” Nathan Anthony using refurbished air fryers to serve up crispy salt and pepper squid, aglio e olio chicken wings, ’nduja arancini, Creme Egg croissant balls and miso-glazed aubergine. Not a chip in sight. The point was to prove that the gadget could combat soaring energy bills... and that you could buy them on eBay.

Even snobby food writers like me are convinced. Taking pride of place on my kitchen counter is a ludicrously enormous air fryer from Ninja.

It’s a third of a metre high, wide and deep, weighs over 10kg and has 11 different settings: it can air fry, pressure cook, grill, bake, sear and saute, steam, slow cook, steam air fry and steam bake, dehydrate and… yoghurt. I have to say I don’t get much yoghurting done but it’s nice to know that I could.

Out of the frying pan: air fryers are a great option for crispy food which uses little or no fat (Getty)

There’s rarely a day now when I’m not whirring it into action (it’s as loud as a carwash). I use it for things like simultaneously cooking chicken and rice for a quick salad, handling the sides for a roast dinner, or, as of a recent experiment, achieving perfect crispy pork belly.

I’m not particularly adventurous but it suits me: time-poor, health-conscious and a bit lazy. I’m the target market, and I’m well and truly hooked. I can’t even remember the last time I used the oven.

But contrary to TikTok and popular opinion, the air fryer didn’t just appear. It’s hardly a new invention at all.

The first commercial example of an air fryer was the Sky Plate, a 15kg convection oven invented in 1944 by American William Maxson. A former navy officer-turned-inventor, his creations include a pilot navigation system and a mobile pillbox for shooting down enemy aircraft during bombing raids.

It was Maxson’s obsession with frozen food that moved him on from wartime weapons to kitchen gadgets. Frozen food was becoming popular in the US, spurred on by a shortage of canned goods during the Second World War and advancements in freezing and refrigeration. As women got back to work, they needed a faster way to make dinner. Housewives were out. Ready meals were in.

At the same time, naval officers on long flights were surviving on cold sandwiches and K-rations. Inspired by the frozen meals he was reheating at home, Maxson asked: why not freeze a whole meal and heat it up in the air?

Frying high: a version of Maxson’s Whirlwind Oven is still used on planes today (Supplied)

The microwave didn’t exist yet – it wouldn’t be invented until late 1945 and wasn’t commercially available until 1967 – so his solution was the Maxson Whirlwind Oven, which is a much more exciting name. It heated the food using a 120-volt DC motor and could be powered by gas, kerosene or electricity.

A fan in the back circulated hot air around the food and prevented it from accumulating in one section, allowing for a more even cook than in regular ovens. It was also half the time: six meals in 15 minutes. Back then, Popular Science Magazine called it “magic”. Nowadays, we call it a convection oven.

A version of Maxson’s invention is still used on planes today, though it’s been considerably improved since. In the Sixties, a full-sized convection oven was developed for home use. Sales were sluggish from the off and once the microwave came along, died completely.

Around 40 years later, Dutch inventor Fred van der Weij was trying to find a way to crisp a french fry without deep frying and resurrected Maxson’s original design to develop the first modern air fryer in 2005.

The prototype was patented and released by Philips in 2010, nearly 70 years after Maxson’s invention and three years before I went to university with a George Foreman tucked under my arm and a Nutribullet in the boot.

It took a while to get off the ground. In fairness, Instagram had only just been invented and the iPhone was only on number four. Sales rose steadily until a boost around 2018, however, it was when the pandemic struck that the humble air fryer really took off.

Figures from Lakeland last September showed that sales of air fryers were up 1,175 per cent on the year before; according to Statista, within four years, there will be 106.5 million air fryers in the world.

Apparently, purveyors of the Oxford English Dictionary needed more convincing – they only added “air fryer” to common lingo last January.

You could say it was a case of right time, right place, right technology, right mindset, but its evolution from a deep-fryer alternative to a gadget with 11 different functions isn’t one driven by necessity, as in the Forties.

Its meteoric rise is similar to that of the microwave, which also survived the hype. The creator of the microwave never intended for the gadget to be used for anything other than reheating pre-prepared meals. It was the ingenuity of home cooks in the Forties, Fifties and Sixties who realised its potential to cook, well, pretty much anything, from potatoes and pasta to meat and even eggs.

The first air fryer was released by Philips in 2010 (Philips)

Social media, of course, helped fan the air fryer trend, though perhaps it simply added fuel to a fire that was already burning, helped by the fact that the cost of living crisis and surging energy prices were driving home cooks to find more affordable solutions.

Today, if you look for air fryer recipes online or on social media, the chips are there but there are also boiled eggs, steak, whole roast dinners and even cheesecake, to name just a few of millions, some wackier than others.

Influencers taught Philips, Tefal, Ninja and any other appliance brand that jumped on the trend that there was much more it could do. Some influencers cash in nearly £200k a year on sponsored air fryer videos, while brands capitalised on their own marketing strategies. The rest, I suppose, is history.

Which begs the question: will it last? Even if Jamie has become a laughing stock with his air-frying show, I won’t be putting mine on eBay anytime soon and presumably nor will Nigella or the millions of other households in the UK that have one.

The microwave enjoyed 40 years of dominance before anything new came along, if that’s anything to go by. But I wonder, why hasn’t the promise of perfectly cooked food in half the time and at a fraction of the energy cost caught on with restaurants? They’re in just as dire straits as home cooks.

I pose the question to my friend Angus, former chef at Black Axe Mangal in Islington. I claim that you can cook a chicken thigh, for example, to perfection in an air fryer, far better than in a pan.

“Then you just can’t cook,” he says. Well, that was never up for debate. “It regresses cooking to little more than opening a drawer,” he adds. True, but I’m not sure you can tell the difference when you’re eating it. Air frying might not win you any Michelin stars but it does make a bloody good chicken thigh.

Four air fryer recipes for beginners

Fish Lovers: Air fryer sweet chilli salmon bites with Asian-inspired salad

Serves: 4

Prep time: 15 minutes | Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

For the salad:

2 tbsp rice vinegar

2 tsp reduced-salt soy sauce

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tbsp caster sugar

1 green finger chilli, very thinly sliced

1 cucumber, thinly sliced

200g cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered if large

2 tbsp coriander, chopped

For the salmon bites:

1 tbsp groundnut oil or sunflower oil

100g panko breadcrumbs

Juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp runny honey

4 tbsp sweet chilli and garlic sauce

1 tsp ginger paste

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tbsp reduced-salt soy sauce

2 tbsp sesame seeds

1 green finger chilli, thinly sliced (optional)

4 boneless salmon fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 spring onion, sliced

2 x 250g microwave basmati rice

Method:

Preheat the air fryer to 200C.

In a bowl, whisk together rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, caster sugar, and thinly sliced green chilli to make the dressing for the salad.

In a large mixing bowl, combine cucumber slices, cherry tomatoes, and chopped coriander. Toss the salad with the prepared dressing until well coated. Set aside.

In another bowl, mix groundnut oil, panko breadcrumbs, lime juice, runny honey, sweet chilli and garlic sauce, ginger paste, sesame oil, reduced-salt soy sauce, sesame seeds and thinly sliced green chilli (if using). Stir until well combined.

Dip each salmon bite into the breadcrumb mixture, ensuring they are evenly coated.

Place the coated salmon bites in the air fryer basket in a single layer, making sure they are not overcrowded.

Air fry the salmon bites at 200C for about 8-10 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through, flipping halfway through cooking.

While the salmon cooks, prepare the microwave basmati rice according to the package instructions.

Once the salmon is cooked, remove it from the air fryer.

Serve the crispy salmon bites hot alongside the prepared Asian-inspired salad and steamed basmati rice. Garnish with sliced spring onions.

The vegetarian option: Air fryer roasted cauliflower soup with kale and croutons

This recipe offers a comforting blend of wholesome vegetables and aromatic herbs, all cooked to perfection.

Serves: 4

Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

30ml olive oil (about 2 tbsp)

1 small head cauliflower (about 500g), chopped, leaves and stalk included

2 spring onions, roughly chopped

1 stick celery, chopped

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 large handful kale, roughly chopped

100g stale crusty bread, cut into cubes

1 vegetable stock cube

200ml single cream, plus extra to garnish

Method:

Preheat the air fryer to 200C.

In a large bowl, toss the chopped cauliflower, spring onions, celery, and fresh thyme with olive oil until evenly coated.

Transfer the seasoned vegetables to the air fryer basket. Cook in the air fryer for 20-25 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through cooking, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned.

In the last minute of cooking, add the chopped kale to the air fryer basket and cook until just wilted.

Meanwhile, place the bread cubes in the air fryer basket and cook for 5 minutes, or until golden and crispy, to make the croutons.

In a large pot, dissolve the vegetable stock cube in 500ml of boiling water. Add the roasted vegetables (reserve a few cauliflower florets for garnish) and single cream to the pot.

Using a hand blender or countertop blender, blend the soup until smooth and creamy. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Ladle the soup into serving bowls. Drizzle each portion with a little extra single cream and garnish with the reserved cauliflower florets and crispy croutons.

Serve hot.

Meat lovers: Air fryer steak dinner with crispy chips and broccoli

This hassle-free steak dinner is cooked entirely in the air fryer. Tender ribeye steak, crispy chips and perfectly roasted broccoli come together for a satisfying meal that’s quick and easy to prepare.

Serves: 2

Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

2 ribeye steaks (or your choice of cut), about 200g each

2 tbsp olive oil

200g broccoli florets

200g frozen fries

Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:

2 tbsp mayonnaise

1 tbsp dijon mustard

1 tsp honey

Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

Preheat the air fryer to 200C.

Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper on both sides. Drizzle olive oil over the steaks and rub to coat evenly.

Place the seasoned steaks in the air fryer basket. Cook for 8-10 minutes for medium-rare, flipping halfway through cooking, or adjust the cooking time according to your preferred doneness.

While the steaks cook, spread the frozen fries and broccoli florets in a single layer on separate trays or baskets in the air fryer.

Cook the fries according to the package instructions, usually around 15-20 minutes, shaking the basket halfway through for even cooking. The broccoli will take about 10-12 minutes to roast until tender and slightly crispy.

In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, dijon mustard, honey, salt, and pepper to make the sauce. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

Once everything is cooked, remove the steak, fries, and broccoli from the air fryer.

Serve the steak with the crispy fries and roasted broccoli on the side. Drizzle the sauce over the steak or serve it on the side for dipping.

Pudding: Air fryer fudgy brownies

Satisfy your chocolate cravings with these indulgent and fudgy brownies made right in the air fryer. With a crispy exterior and a rich, gooey centre, these brownies are a delightful treat that’s quick and easy to make.

Serves: 6-8

Prep time: 10 minutes | Cooking time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

115g unsalted butter, melted

200g granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

60g all-purpose flour

35g unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ tsp salt

60g chocolate chips (optional)

Method:

Preheat your air fryer to 160C for 5 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the melted butter and granulated sugar until well combined.

Add the eggs and vanilla extract to the butter-sugar mixture, and whisk until smooth and creamy.

Sift in the all-purpose flour, cocoa powder and salt into the wet ingredients. Gently fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until just combined. Be careful not to overmix.

If using chocolate chips, fold them into the brownie batter.

Grease a small baking dish that fits into your air fryer basket with a little butter or cooking spray. Pour the brownie batter into the prepared dish, spreading it out evenly.

Place the baking dish into the preheated air fryer basket. Cook the brownies at 160C for 18-20 minutes. Check for doneness by inserting a toothpick into the centre of the brownies – it should come out with a few moist crumbs attached.

Once cooked, remove the baking dish from the air fryer and let the brownies cool in the dish for a few minutes.

Carefully transfer the brownies from the baking dish onto a wire rack to cool completely.

Once cooled, slice the brownies into squares and serve.