This tall ship cruise lets you discover lesser-known Caribbean islands

I found uninhabited islands, hidden beaches and quiet coves on a Caribbean cruise aboard a tall ship, writes Sarah Riches

Star Clippers’ Star Flyer ship moors off Barbuda’s River Bay – which is half the size of Antigua (Star Clippers)

Alighting a tender boat between two empty beaches on Barbuda, I wonder where everyone is.

The Caribbean island has 3,000 residents – three per cent of Antigua and Barbuda’s total population. Between December and April’s peak-sailing season, a fortnight can pass without any cruise ships visiting, and those that do have fewer than 200 passengers.

Star Clippers’ Star Flyer ship sets sail from Sint Maarten, and moors off Barbuda’s River Bay – which is so small it’s not on Google Maps.

“At 62 square miles, Barbuda is half the size of Antigua,” explains James from excursion service The Rendezvous Company. “Everyone knows everyone – we’re basically family. It’s quiet, but we like it.”

No wonder Princess Diana hid from the paparazzi for a week when holidaying here in the 90s, I think, as James points out the pink bungalow where she stayed.

Star Clippers’ Star Flyer ship moors off Barbuda, a small Caribbean island (Neil Keeling)

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Driving over potholes, my group and I pass shacks painted in lilac, mint and peach shades. Grass sways on a deserted cricket field while donkeys graze by the road.

A speedboat whisks us to the Caribbean’s largest frigatebird colony. Flashes of scarlet and white peek through the mangroves, like the rose bushes in Alice in Wonderland. “Males inflate their red pouches, sending a message to females they’re back in town,” explains Pat, the ship’s captain.

All aboard: The tall ship experience

A four-masted barquentine, the 166-guest Star Flyer resembles a pirate ship, with square sails at the bow, and fore-and-aft (irregular quadrilateral) sails at the stern.

Even if – like me –you’re familiar with ocean, river and expedition cruise ships, tall ships are something else. They may be tall, but they’re also small, with portholes rather than balconies and steep stairs instead of lifts. They lift more than large ships, so I’m seasick within 10 minutes of setting off, and for the next 12 hours.

A Star Flyer twin cabin (Star Clippers)

After finding my sea legs, I tie knots, read nautical charts and climb the rig like a sailor. There are no cooking classes or casinos, but there are two saltwater pools to enjoy. I attempt napkin origami and watch the sails light up to Vangelis’ “Conquest of Paradise.” Antigua’s Hells Gate Steel Orchestra performs one night; on another, crew host a talent show. Who needs West End showstoppers when you have waiters doing the “Gangnam Style” dance?

The biggest difference between tall ships and cruise liners is that vessels like Star Flyer explore secluded bays and small, lesser-known islands. We call into Falmouth, Antigua, which sees three ships a week (rather than St John’s on the same island, which receives three a day). When cruise ship Carnival Venezia docks in Roseau in southern Dominica, we head north to dock among the Portsmouth yachts.

Sarah enjoying one of Star Flyer ’s saltwater pools (Sarah Riches)

Discovering Dominica, the Nature Island

The volcanic isle of Dominica is 65 times smaller than the better-known Dominican Republic. It’s also referred to as the Nature Island, because of its vast tropical rainforests.

Once goats scamper out of Portsmouth’s main road, we drive past a pink barber’s shack, banana stalls and lime green villas. I see huts adorned with climbing plants and black-sand beaches before we arrive at an indigenous village.

Previously known as Caribs, the Kalinago Indigenous people have inhabited the Caribbean since around 4000BC – long before 17th-century French and British colonisers. In 1903, the government created a Kalinago territory on the east coast. Touna Aute Carib Native Village is one of its eight villages, home to 142 of Dominica’s 3,500 Kalinago people.

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The Kalinago indigenous people make hand-woven baskets, coconut shell bracelets and seed necklaces (Sarah Riches)

Former chief Nanichi Auguiste shows us trees laden with guavas, papayas and starfruit. “We don’t go to the supermarket,” he grins. “We just come to these trees.”

The villagers raise chickens, goats and sheep, and harvest yams, cashews and lemongrass. “We use glory cedar for eczema, soursop to help us sleep and sugarcane as natural toothbrushes,” says Nanichi, handing me stalks to chew. I have a go at a rudimentary sugarcane press as he explains how they boil the juice to make rum.

Nanichi’s daughter bakes cassava bread on a campfire for us to dip into with tuna stew accompanied by plantain, coconut drops and sorrel juice. I browse hand-woven baskets, coconut shell bracelets and seed necklaces before saying goodbye.

Star Flyer moors off Terre-de-Haut (Sarah Riches)

Exploring Terre-de-Haut and Îlet à Cabrit

The next day, we moor among catamarans off Terre-de-Haut. Just two square miles, the island is part of French-speaking Guadeloupian archipelago Îles des Saintes.

Cockerels crow and cuckoos call as I dip into boutiques in Terre-de-Haut village, which is adorned with murals and cafes as colourful as a Pantone paint chart. At the fish market, a fisherman jumps out of a boat holding a lobster and watermelon. I then discover the Caribbean’s best beach, Anse du Fond Cure, which is so beautiful it’s a cliche. There are only three other people on it.

If Terre-de-Haut seems peaceful, Îlet à Cabrit, 15 minutes by boat, is quieter still – uninhabited, in fact. Wild and rugged, there isn’t a sun lounger in sight, only a driftwood rope swing, like a castaway’s playground.

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Terre-de-Haut village has colourful buildings and boutique shops (Sarah Riches)

The Leeward Islands: Best of the rest

The rest of the cruise is just as tranquil. My group has Guadeloupe’s rum distillery to ourselves, while in Antigua I kayak in mangroves unchanged for centuries before sipping punch on Great Bird Island (another uninhabited isle).

We moor among superyachts in St Barthélemy’s Gustavia, which is lined with designer shops like Prada, Hermès and Louis Vuitton. Looping the harbour from the lighthouse to the heritage museum and Wall House gallery takes 15 minutes. I watch the sunset at Shell Beach, then return to Star Flyer for my last night.

While other guests are in the bar, I pad barefoot across the deck to stargaze. A warm breeze caresses my skin as ropes creak, pulleys squeal and waves crash against the hull. Marvelling at the moon – which is as dazzling as car lights on a dark country lane – it feels like I have the Caribbean all to myself, just like that first day in Barbuda.

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The Star Flyer dining room (Star Clippers)

How to do it

A Star Clippers eight-night Leeward Islands tall ship cruise aboard Star Flyer starts from £3,599 per person. This price includes a pre-cruise stay at Divi Little Bay Beach Resort, Sint Maarten; all meals on board; yoga sessions; return flights from London; non-UK transfers and port charges.

The itinerary is a return trip from Philipsburg (Sint Maarten) via River Bay (Barbuda); Cabrits (Dominica); Terre-de-Haut (Îles des Saintes); Deshaies (Guadeloupe); Falmouth Harbour (Antigua) and Gustavia (St Barthélemy), departing on 20 February 2026.

Call 01473 242666 or visit Starclippers.com to find out more.

Sarah Riches travelled as a guest of Star Clippers.