Discover the other side of Florida – Kissimmee

In the second of this seven part series, Simon Calder travels across the sunshine state where he discovers a romantic name, takes a kayak trip and eschews Disneyland in favour of playing Tarzan

Happy landings: every minute of every hour of every day, an average of 38 people touch down at Orlando airport, gateway to the centre of the Sunshine State. Yet alongside this thriving city is a location where you can engage with American heritage and the wild: Kissimmee. That’s not a proposition but a town, just 20 minutes from Orlando airport. To get there, hire a compact car from Orlando International Airport from £175 for seven days, or upgrade to a Chevrolet Camaro Convertible from £298 with Hertz.

Rock Star/ Rock of Ages/ Top Rocks

Founded in 1883, downtown Kissimmee is a relaxed area with a remarkable piece of heritage: the Monument of States, which self-describes as the world’s most unique monument. After the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941, which brought the US into the Second World War, the Kissimmee All-States Tourist Club wrote to all the states to ask for a piece of rock. The result: a tall, thin pyramid created from stones from across the nation and the world. Minerals such as marble from Massachusetts and copper ore from Montana symbolise rock-solid unity.

Monument of States, Kissimmee

Lake Life

A quick note about names. Kissimmee gets its name from the native Indian word “Cacema”, meaning “long water”. The water in question is Lake Tohopekaliga, which means “a place where we gather”, but which everyone calls Lake Toho.

Lake Toho is fed by Shingle Creek — which leads through a forest of old-growth cypress, and feels almost primeval. There’s lots of wildlife, including alligators and migrating birds such as ospreys.

A kayak provides the ideal perspective an pace for exploring. The six-mile Shingle Creek Paddling Trail takes you along the northernmost headwaters of the Everglades, an area originally settled by Seminole Indians. And while Kissimmee has a strong suit in vacation rentals, you could also sample the “catered camping experience” on Lake Toho. You can paddle — or hitch a lift — across to the island, where you tent, sleeping bags and meals await for a blissful night with nature.

The only celebration

According to my research, there are twenty-seven places in America called Paradise, and six named Bliss — but only one called Celebration. It’s more modern than downtown Kissimmee; some of America’s best architects were commissioned to build modern buildings with echoes of the past. One of the most appealing structures is the Bohemian Hotel at 700 Bloom Street, with touches of art nouveau in a lakeside setting.

Celebration, Kissimmee

If you think this is something of an idealised version of Main Street USA, a film set or a theme park, you won’t be surprised to learn that it was developed by Disney, the masters of “re-imagining”.

Up in the treetops/ Not just Disney

Orlando Tree Trek

Disney, Universal and many others are the business of providing thrills in central Florida, but the most natural adventure I’ve found is Orlando Tree Trek. As you clamber, wobble and Tarzan-swing your way through the forest, a canny system of clips and magnets keeps you safe — though your survival instinct might not be convinced. And just when you’re coming to terms with your inner Indiana Jones, there’s a 425-foot zip wire where gravity brings you down to a happy landing.

Discover more at Visit Florida