The Independente Suites, Lisbon, Portugal

Opposite the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, one of the city's best viewpoints, in the Bairro Alto, the views over the city are mesmerising. The downside is that it's an unrelenting uphill walk to reach it, though there are plenty of trams and buses. Alternatively, the Elevador da Glória - one of the city's vintage funiculars - has a top station a couple of minutes' walk away, which connects with downtown Lisbon. The 16th-century church of São Roque nearby has rich interiors of marble and azulejo tiling, while to the west of the hotel, around Praça do Principe Real, are independent shops showcasing Portuguese designers plus pop-up bars frequented by locals.

By plane: flights to Lisbon take around 2 hours 50 mins from London and Manchester, and 2 hours 30 mins from Bristol. The hotel is a 30-minute taxi ride from the airport. Book flights to Lisbon.

Big double doors lead into high-ceilinged spaces with chequerboard-tiled floors, marble pillars, wrought-iron balustraded staircases and an eclectic decorative style. A row of wooden squash racquets, a clutch of old-fashioned typewriters or a pile of old leather suitcases might decorate landings and wide corridors, while a tiny, old-fashioned lift chugs its way to the colourful, top-floor restaurant.

Guests have a choice of places to chill out, all shared with the hostel also housed on the premises: the lounge bar of the more relaxed restaurant, Decadente, in the adjacent building, a rear courtyard beer garden and a first-floor lounge. Staff are young and switched-on to the needs of travellers.

• Restaurants
• Café
• Bar
• Roof terrace
• Games room
• Free Wi-Fi

Spread over three floors (with a vintage lift for access), the rooms showcase original features of parquet floors, high ceilings and shuttered windows and are furnished with recycled and vintage pieces: 1950s wardrobes, marble-topped washstands and a pile of books as a bedside table. Decorative items range from silk wall hangings to gaudily-coloured retro china.

Room types: Small Double, Double, Double Superior, Double Terrace, Suite Deluxe

Key amenities: ensuite bathroom, hairdryer, TV, free Wi-Fi

Food in the top-floor restaurant, Insólito, takes traditional Portuguese dishes and gives them a creative kick: lobster ravioli with fennel and chilli could be followed by duck with sweet potato. Decadente, on the ground floor, offers more casual eating and a good Portuguese wine list. Breakfast is a generous spread of fruits, cheeses, homemade cakes and cooked eggs.

Insólito: contemporary Portuguese cuisine. Open Tues-Sat for evening drinks and dinner.

Decadente: grill and seafood. Open daily for evening drinks and dinner.