Memmo Alfama, Lisbon, Portugal

Tucked away at the end of one of the labyrinthian streets of the city's historic Alfama district, the hotel benefits from its hard-to-find location; there are no passers-by, yet the views over the tightly-packed roofs of its neighbours, and down to the Tagus River, are mesmerising. The No 28 tram route through the city is a couple of minutes' walk away. The city's Romanesque cathedral is within stepping distance and the shops of downtown Baixa are just a little further, while the splendid Moorish Castelo de São Jorge is a steepish walk uphill.

By plane: flights to Lisbon take around 2 hours 50 mins from London and Manchester and 2 hours 30 mins from Bristol. The hotel is a 25-minute taxi ride from the airport. Public parking available. Book flights to Lisbon.

From its modest-looking, white-washed exterior the hotel opens up into unexpectedly large and airy interiors that blend original features of vaulted ceilings and brick walls with a cool style of bleached-wood floors, coffee and white colours, leather chairs and large plate-glass windows. Shelves of books, big designer lights and modern art act as decoration.

The lounge-dining room-bar spread over two floors and a brick-vaulted library (the former bakery oven), plus a large outdoor terrace, mean plenty of space to relax. Shelves of books (many on Lisbon) plus a help-yourself fridge with water, juices and yoghurt keep you occupied if staying in, or staff can organise activities from fado experiences to more offbeat city tours as well as a free walking tour. Winters mean a fire pit on the terrace.

• Restaurant
• Bar
• Pool
• Roof terrace
• Public parking
• Free Wi-Fi

Bedrooms are on the small side (and standard rooms look out onto the roof parapet) but are light-coloured and minimally furnished - wood floors, white walls, wood-block bedside tables, often hooks and hangers instead of wardrobes - to make the most of the space. The bedhead cleverly doubles as a shelf, while some of the wet-room bathrooms have a glass wall.

Room types: Patio Room, Mansard Room, Alfama Room, Terrace Room

Key amenities: ensuite bath or shower, hairdryer, TV, free Wi-Fi

In the evening, a short menu of Portuguese tapas dishes such as shrimp with lime and ginger, a fillet steak sandwich and plates of local hams and cheeses are served alongside a handsome selection of Portuguese wines and ports. Breakfast is a generous selection of bread, pastries, prepared fruits and savouries with cooked dishes to order.

The restaurant: pastries, cooked breakfasts, Portuguese tapas, wine, port. Open every day.