24-Hour Room Service: Due Torri Baglioni, Verona

THE DUE TORRI started life in the 14th century as a barracks, although the marble pillars and carved wood suggest extensive renovations have taken place over the centuries. The lobby opens into an elegant sitting area with discreetly grouped armchairs, oozing far more comfort than the average soldier has a right to expect.

THE DUE TORRI started life in the 14th century as a barracks, although the marble pillars and carved wood suggest extensive renovations have taken place over the centuries. The lobby opens into an elegant sitting area with discreetly grouped armchairs, oozing far more comfort than the average soldier has a right to expect.

The hotel is in the centre of Verona, 10 minutes walk from the Arena, and down the road from the bustling market of the Piazza delle Erbe. But inside, there is a relaxing, and rather unItalian calm, combined with an eagerness to make guests feel comfortable. Although the restaurant had just closed when I checked in at 10pm, the maitre d' immediately offered to open up the kitchen again to make me a late supper.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Due Torri Hotel Baglioni, Piazza Sant' Anastasia 4, Verona, Italy. (00 39 045 595044; fax 00 39 045 8004130; email: duetorri.verona@baglioni- palacehotels.it). The hotel is 15 minutes by taxi from the airport, and 10 minutes from the station.

ARE YOU LYING COMFORTABLY?

The air-conditioned rooms are attractively furnished, with fabric wall coverings and prints of Italian cities. Prices reflect the size of the rooms, all of which have en-suite bathrooms, TV and radio.

What to book: Ask for room 404 if you really want to treat yourself. It is beautifully furnished in fin de siecle style with white Carrara marble in the bathroom, and its own jacuzzi. But you will have to pay more than a million lire for the privilege.

IT'S ALL IN THE DETAILS

If you had arrived before the end of this month, you could have dropped in on Verona's annual opera festival. The dress code is relaxed. And don't forget your plastic mac - in Verona, even the smartest people wear them.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Costs: In the high season, single rooms start at 450,000 lire (around £160), and a superior double room (the cheapest type) costs 570,000 lire (about £200). This includes breakfast, where the drinks on offer include champagne.

I'm not paying that: The high season covers not only July and August when the opera is on, but other periods when there are trade fairs, so don't be fooled into thinking that prices will automatically be lower outside of high summer. When you do find a time deemed to be low season, a double room will cost 450,000 lire, and a single 285,000.

Other hotels in Verona include: the Giulietta e Romeo (00 39 045 8003554), where doubles start at 270,000 lire (£94) in the high season; or the Aurora (00 39 045 594717), where doubles start at 190,000 lire (£66).